Answer: Obviously, the cat mustn’t simply be abandoned to fined its own food when you go away. If it is moved to someone else’s house, if often escapes back home where there is no-one to feed or care for it.
The best alternative to boarding (from your cat’s point if view it is probably preferable) is for a friend or relative to visit your home twice a day to feed and look after your cat in its own familiar environment.
Showing posts with label Housing and Training. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Housing and Training. Show all posts
Q: How can I judge whether a cattery is a good one?
Answer: The way in which the establishment is managed is reflected in its general hygiene, i.e. the smell, the cleanliness of the cages, the condition of the food and water bowls and the toilet tray, and the appearance of the attendants. Note whether the cats are boarded individually or two or more to a cage are chalet, and decide whether they look contented and well-cared for. If the cattery looks sub-standard and poorly run, try elsewhere. Even if you are satisfied, check, that the accommodation you have seen is where your cat will be housed; sometimes second-rate accommodation is tucked out of sight.
Some catteries will ask about each cat’s preference for food, though it is surprising how often a boarded cat will eat with apparent relish food that are refused at home. Certainly, if there is definite evidence of an allergy or intolerance to certain foods, this should be mentioned.
Two type of cat are unpopular in a cattery; one is tom cat, because of its smell, and the second is sick cat, because it represent a source of infection for all the other cats. If you have a cat that to receive regular medication during your holiday period, the cattery should be informed as soon as possible; are willing to give treatment or to arranged for their local vet to visit, but some are not. There are, however some veterinary surgeon who run boarding catteries and who may be able to accept a sick cat for regular treatment whilst you are away.
A familiar cushion or blanket left with your cat can help to him to avoid feeling totally abandoned. But because old cats, like old people, don’t adopt well to new surroundings and new ways of doing things, elderly animals are bet not boarded unless boarding has previously been a regular occurrence and the cattery is familiar to them. Most cats will quickly adapt to their new circumstance but these older animals may become very with-drown and depressed, and even refuse food.
Finally, it should appreciated that outbreaks of disease can occur even in the best run catteries, despite all possible precautions. Unfortunately, this is inherent in any establishment where a number of cats are brought together. If you avoid the use of cattery altogether you will reduce, though certainly not eliminate, this particular risk.
Some catteries will ask about each cat’s preference for food, though it is surprising how often a boarded cat will eat with apparent relish food that are refused at home. Certainly, if there is definite evidence of an allergy or intolerance to certain foods, this should be mentioned.
Two type of cat are unpopular in a cattery; one is tom cat, because of its smell, and the second is sick cat, because it represent a source of infection for all the other cats. If you have a cat that to receive regular medication during your holiday period, the cattery should be informed as soon as possible; are willing to give treatment or to arranged for their local vet to visit, but some are not. There are, however some veterinary surgeon who run boarding catteries and who may be able to accept a sick cat for regular treatment whilst you are away.
A familiar cushion or blanket left with your cat can help to him to avoid feeling totally abandoned. But because old cats, like old people, don’t adopt well to new surroundings and new ways of doing things, elderly animals are bet not boarded unless boarding has previously been a regular occurrence and the cattery is familiar to them. Most cats will quickly adapt to their new circumstance but these older animals may become very with-drown and depressed, and even refuse food.
Finally, it should appreciated that outbreaks of disease can occur even in the best run catteries, despite all possible precautions. Unfortunately, this is inherent in any establishment where a number of cats are brought together. If you avoid the use of cattery altogether you will reduce, though certainly not eliminate, this particular risk.
Q: How should I arrange to board my cat while I am on holiday?
Answer: Like so many other things, the best boarding catteries are often recommended by word of mouth. Or you might ask your vet there is a cattery he could recommend. You should approach the cattery owners or manager to make the necessary arrangements. Do this as soon as you have decided on your holiday dates because the best catteries are always fully booked during the most popular holiday weeks. And, like good hotels, good catteries ten to charge rather moor. A good cattery will insist that your cat is fully and recently vaccinated, to protect both itself and the other boarders, and will demand proof in the form of vaccination certificates. You may thus need time to arrange for a vaccination course to be completed. Vaccination is required against feline enteritis, and sometimes feline influenza as well.
Catteries very widely in quality and if you want to inform yourself about the type of establishment ask for an appointment to view the accommodation before making definite booking. A well-run cattery will have nothing to hide.
Catteries very widely in quality and if you want to inform yourself about the type of establishment ask for an appointment to view the accommodation before making definite booking. A well-run cattery will have nothing to hide.
Q: Can my cat be trained to walk on a lead?
Answer: Many cats can be trained to walk on the lead (Siamese and other oriental cats in particular), preferably starting when they are kittens. A lead can prove a great asset in allowing in safe exercise for the cat during long journeys and in hazardous urban areas. Cats won’t walk to hell in the way that dogs will, but the can be trained to walk alongside you.
The cat should were a harness rather then a collar. Collars tend to be easy for the cat to slip through, and in any case pressure around the nick makes a cat reluctant to move. Certainly a ‘choke’ chain as used on dogs shouldn’t be used with cats. The harness should be capable of adjustment and fitted so that it is tight enough to prevent the cat wriggling free. Then a lead of light leather, canvas, nylon or cord, six to seven feet long, attached to the harness.
The keynote of training is to have a number of short training sessions and not to attempt too much at one time. At first, training should be performed indoors, the cat simply dragging the lead around without you holding it. Later, he should be encouraged to walk with you holding the lead; wherever he wants to go at first, but later where you wish to go. He should be checked from dashing ahead or pulling back by a pull on the lead. If he is stubborn, don’t drag him along-rather try to cajole him into walking a few more steps. A reward can be given afterwards in the form of a little favorite food, but only if he does what is asked of him. Some trainers recommend using a log stick such as garden cane, not to hit but to push the cat gently and persuade it to move into a position nearer to you. Whether the cats walk on your right or left side is unimportant, but the some side should be adhered to.
When he is able to walk alongside and to change direction when you do, he can be taken outdoors though he will need to be reassured frequently about his safety. Do this by picking him up very few seconds at the start and gradually the periods on the ground can become longer.
With a policy of gentle persuasion, rewards for good behavior and reassurance, it should be possible to train your cat to walk on the lead by your side. However, don’t be tempted to let the cat loose if things are going well; without restrain any sudden starling noise or movement could send him scuttling away.
The cat should were a harness rather then a collar. Collars tend to be easy for the cat to slip through, and in any case pressure around the nick makes a cat reluctant to move. Certainly a ‘choke’ chain as used on dogs shouldn’t be used with cats. The harness should be capable of adjustment and fitted so that it is tight enough to prevent the cat wriggling free. Then a lead of light leather, canvas, nylon or cord, six to seven feet long, attached to the harness.
The keynote of training is to have a number of short training sessions and not to attempt too much at one time. At first, training should be performed indoors, the cat simply dragging the lead around without you holding it. Later, he should be encouraged to walk with you holding the lead; wherever he wants to go at first, but later where you wish to go. He should be checked from dashing ahead or pulling back by a pull on the lead. If he is stubborn, don’t drag him along-rather try to cajole him into walking a few more steps. A reward can be given afterwards in the form of a little favorite food, but only if he does what is asked of him. Some trainers recommend using a log stick such as garden cane, not to hit but to push the cat gently and persuade it to move into a position nearer to you. Whether the cats walk on your right or left side is unimportant, but the some side should be adhered to.
When he is able to walk alongside and to change direction when you do, he can be taken outdoors though he will need to be reassured frequently about his safety. Do this by picking him up very few seconds at the start and gradually the periods on the ground can become longer.
With a policy of gentle persuasion, rewards for good behavior and reassurance, it should be possible to train your cat to walk on the lead by your side. However, don’t be tempted to let the cat loose if things are going well; without restrain any sudden starling noise or movement could send him scuttling away.
Q: Our cat ripped our old sofa to shreds. Now that we are buying some expensive new furniture, is there any way we can stop him from damaging it?
Answer: Cats often like to lie on chairs, sofas and other furniture and may adopt favorite pieces as part of their own territory. Many owners will not object unduly to this, provided that the furniture is not damage or covered with cat hairs. If you do wish to avoid this behavior it is best to train the cat from an early age only to use its own bed Most owners, however, will object when the cat beings to deliberately damage furniture and carpets by scratching at them at them. As was mentioned in an earlier section, this is natural behavior on the part of the cat, both to keep its claws sharp and to make its territory. Once cat has chosen an object or area to scratch it will usually not readily change.
To prevent or minimize damage indoors, cats should be trained to use a scratching post or board. This is piece of the log or board arranged vertically upright measuring 6 to 8 inches wide and 2 to 2 ½ feet high and for the cat to use it, it must be stable, preferably fixed onto a firm base or fastened to the wall. It is best kept in the room where the cat sleep as scratching is often performed upon waking. Ideally this boar should be introduced while the cat is still a kitten so that it gets into the habit of using it. Commercially produced posts may have a covering of cardboard, canvas or carpet, and some are scented with cat-mint to increase their attractiveness. Fastening a piece of the old carpet to a leg of the kitchen table has been suggested but this may simply condition the animal to damage furniture. Pieces of carpet may also harbor fleas.
The key to effective discouragement from scratching is a sudden shock. This could be given by simply throwing a magazine, bunch of keys of coat-hanger near, but not at, the cat, or even by spraying him with a water pistol. Less effective is not point at the cat and tell it loudly and firmly ‘No’ as soon as it begins to scratch the furniture or adopts the posture to begin scratching. Whatever discouragement is adopted, the cat should then be taken to the scratching post and its forelimbs moved in the normal claw sharpening movements to demonstrate how you wish it to behave. If an animal has been in the habit of clawing a particular piece of furniture, that item should be moved and the scratching post substituted in the same position then the training procedure should be adopted. In time the scratching post can be gradually moved to a more convenient position in the room. With carpet clawing, the scratching post should be placed in the most frequently damage area. In this case the post should remain there and not be removed subsequently.
If you cannot always be present other techniques have to be adopted. Many cats dislike smooth textures and covering a piece of furniture with plastic sheeting may discourage the cat temporarily. When buying furniture upholstered in fabric, it is worth bearing in mind that cats find loosely woven material much more satisfying to scratch at then thick, tightly woven material. Since cats dislike unstable objects, a deterrent can be to drape the item of furniture which is frequently damaged with a loose cover which will move if the cat attempts to scratch at it. Alternatively, the cat’s attentions may be discouraged by building alongside the scratched area a ‘booby trap’ of precariously balanced books or feeding bowls which will topple over if disturbed, or by placing some small object under one leg of a table so that it rocks if touched. And if the cat has to be left unobserved, it is best placed in a room where scratching has not previously been a problem.
To prevent or minimize damage indoors, cats should be trained to use a scratching post or board. This is piece of the log or board arranged vertically upright measuring 6 to 8 inches wide and 2 to 2 ½ feet high and for the cat to use it, it must be stable, preferably fixed onto a firm base or fastened to the wall. It is best kept in the room where the cat sleep as scratching is often performed upon waking. Ideally this boar should be introduced while the cat is still a kitten so that it gets into the habit of using it. Commercially produced posts may have a covering of cardboard, canvas or carpet, and some are scented with cat-mint to increase their attractiveness. Fastening a piece of the old carpet to a leg of the kitchen table has been suggested but this may simply condition the animal to damage furniture. Pieces of carpet may also harbor fleas.
The key to effective discouragement from scratching is a sudden shock. This could be given by simply throwing a magazine, bunch of keys of coat-hanger near, but not at, the cat, or even by spraying him with a water pistol. Less effective is not point at the cat and tell it loudly and firmly ‘No’ as soon as it begins to scratch the furniture or adopts the posture to begin scratching. Whatever discouragement is adopted, the cat should then be taken to the scratching post and its forelimbs moved in the normal claw sharpening movements to demonstrate how you wish it to behave. If an animal has been in the habit of clawing a particular piece of furniture, that item should be moved and the scratching post substituted in the same position then the training procedure should be adopted. In time the scratching post can be gradually moved to a more convenient position in the room. With carpet clawing, the scratching post should be placed in the most frequently damage area. In this case the post should remain there and not be removed subsequently.
If you cannot always be present other techniques have to be adopted. Many cats dislike smooth textures and covering a piece of furniture with plastic sheeting may discourage the cat temporarily. When buying furniture upholstered in fabric, it is worth bearing in mind that cats find loosely woven material much more satisfying to scratch at then thick, tightly woven material. Since cats dislike unstable objects, a deterrent can be to drape the item of furniture which is frequently damaged with a loose cover which will move if the cat attempts to scratch at it. Alternatively, the cat’s attentions may be discouraged by building alongside the scratched area a ‘booby trap’ of precariously balanced books or feeding bowls which will topple over if disturbed, or by placing some small object under one leg of a table so that it rocks if touched. And if the cat has to be left unobserved, it is best placed in a room where scratching has not previously been a problem.
Q: How can I keep my cat off certain areas of the garden?
Answer: The Roma philosopher Pliny in his Natural History advised placing bunches of rue (Ruta graveolens) around domestic dove-cots to keep cats away from them. Since it appears that cats dislike the plant and will avoid it, it might be worth planting it to see what effect it will have.
An unpleasant smelling substance, e.g. one containing oil of citronella, smeared on plants and shrubs may prove a deterrent. And covering the area with fine wire mesh or nylon netting a few inches above the ground is often effective, though unsightly. Growing seeds can be protected by surrounding or covering the area with prickly braches or leaves, e.g. of gorse, rose or holly, though obtaining sufficient of them may present problems. Another suggestion is to lightly dab the cat’s gums with lemon juice or vinegar and then to spray the leaves of the plants in the area with a dilute solution of the same liquid.
Several balloons, firmly pegged down, can be used to provide aversion therapy: the noise as they burst discourages further invasions. Alternatively, a loud eclectic bell or horn placed in the area and sounded by remote control when the cat approaches can use it to avoid the spot.
An unpleasant smelling substance, e.g. one containing oil of citronella, smeared on plants and shrubs may prove a deterrent. And covering the area with fine wire mesh or nylon netting a few inches above the ground is often effective, though unsightly. Growing seeds can be protected by surrounding or covering the area with prickly braches or leaves, e.g. of gorse, rose or holly, though obtaining sufficient of them may present problems. Another suggestion is to lightly dab the cat’s gums with lemon juice or vinegar and then to spray the leaves of the plants in the area with a dilute solution of the same liquid.
Several balloons, firmly pegged down, can be used to provide aversion therapy: the noise as they burst discourages further invasions. Alternatively, a loud eclectic bell or horn placed in the area and sounded by remote control when the cat approaches can use it to avoid the spot.
Q: Do cat doors have any disadvantages?
Answer: Apart from the risk from burglars, there are two problems which can occur with cat doors. One is the problem of draughts, which can be solved by a magnetized strip being fitted to the flap so that a firm push is required before the swing open. The other is the problem of unwanted cats entering the house. Sometimes the come after food; making a practice of not leaving food down may stop this. If your cat is an unsprayed female, males will certainly be attracted when she is in season. Therefore, it is important to have the bolt fitted to the inside of the door which will enable you to keep your cat in, and other out, whenever it is necessary. The absence of any looking device is the disadvantage of another type of cat door which has a circular opening covered by series of overlapping flexible plastic triangles hinged at the circumference.
To pass through, the cat pushes its head at the center, where the apex of all the triangles meet, causing them to bend outward (or inward) and allowing the animal to pass through. The type of flap that required the cat to learn how to lift it deter many strays, but there are also sophisticated types with a battery-operated lock that only open when activated by magnet on the cat’s collar. In theory these allow only resident cat to enter, but there has been a report of a cat wearing this device and learning to stand near the flap, thereby allowing it to be opened, so that its ‘guests’ cab enter before it also passes through!.
To pass through, the cat pushes its head at the center, where the apex of all the triangles meet, causing them to bend outward (or inward) and allowing the animal to pass through. The type of flap that required the cat to learn how to lift it deter many strays, but there are also sophisticated types with a battery-operated lock that only open when activated by magnet on the cat’s collar. In theory these allow only resident cat to enter, but there has been a report of a cat wearing this device and learning to stand near the flap, thereby allowing it to be opened, so that its ‘guests’ cab enter before it also passes through!.
Q: We are thinking of installing a cat door. Is it difficult to train a cat to use one?
Answer: A cat door or flap is small light-weight ‘door’ approximately 6 inches squire, feted into an opening in one of the external doors which ideally gives occurs to garden. It allows the cat free entry and exit to relive itself outdoors and to take exercise. It is also possible fit a cat door into a wall but, because this involves considerably more work, this is usual.
The opening should be three to four inches above the ground and situated the wall away from the bolts used to fasten the main door. If necessary, baffles can be fitted around it on the inside tom further frustrate would-be burglars. Don’t be attempted to make the opening too large, children and small adults have been know to entire, uninvited, through an opening measuring 12 inches by 15 inches (30 cm to 40 cm).
Two main types of cat door are commercially available, both of which are hinged at the top. One can pushed open from either side, the other always the open outwards and therefore can only be pushed open from the inside. The latter type is designed to keep out stay cats who do not know how to open it from the outside. Consequently your cat will need to learn how to left the flap in order to re-enter the house.
Some cats learn almost instinctively how to use these doors, but if training is necessary then it is best to began at about three to four months of age. Initially, the hole can be left without the door fitted, or with the cat door permanently fastened open with string or wood blacks, so that the cats gets used to going out (to explore and play) and to come back in (for food and sleep). Calling him from first one side and then the other may help to persuade him to use it. Then the flap can be gradually lowered on the successive days to reduce the opening, so that eventually it has to be persuade or lifted with a paw for the opening to appear.
The opening should be three to four inches above the ground and situated the wall away from the bolts used to fasten the main door. If necessary, baffles can be fitted around it on the inside tom further frustrate would-be burglars. Don’t be attempted to make the opening too large, children and small adults have been know to entire, uninvited, through an opening measuring 12 inches by 15 inches (30 cm to 40 cm).
Two main types of cat door are commercially available, both of which are hinged at the top. One can pushed open from either side, the other always the open outwards and therefore can only be pushed open from the inside. The latter type is designed to keep out stay cats who do not know how to open it from the outside. Consequently your cat will need to learn how to left the flap in order to re-enter the house.
Some cats learn almost instinctively how to use these doors, but if training is necessary then it is best to began at about three to four months of age. Initially, the hole can be left without the door fitted, or with the cat door permanently fastened open with string or wood blacks, so that the cats gets used to going out (to explore and play) and to come back in (for food and sleep). Calling him from first one side and then the other may help to persuade him to use it. Then the flap can be gradually lowered on the successive days to reduce the opening, so that eventually it has to be persuade or lifted with a paw for the opening to appear.
Q: We are shortly moving house. What is the best way of introducing our cat to his new home?
Answer: Some cats from a very close attachment to their territory, so much so that when the owner moves to a new house the cat may leave this new home and return to its old territory. This is particularly likely to occur tow home are less then a mile apart, but with tom cats who roam over a much wider area, even up to ten miles away. On the other hand, many owners move house a number of times and never experience this problem. This suggests that in these cases there is much stronger bond between the cat and the owner, or that the cat is much less familiar with the surrounding area.(Indeed, some cats normally confined to a flat may even have difficulty in finding their way back to the correct floor of the apartment block.)
Among the methods suggested to prevent cats wandering back to their old territory is the dubious remedy of putting batter paws. The intention is for the cat to be so occupied with licking off the butter that by the time is has finished the urge to return to its former abode has disappeared. But the most successful is simply to confine the cat to his new home for a week (using a litter tray) so that his attachment to it grows and displaces his longing for his previous domain. Then, when the time to comes to let the cat out for the first occasion, do it just before feeding, or ideally when he is asking for food, to ensure his rapid return. On subsequent days, the cat can be let out progressively earlier so that there is a longer interval between being let out and being fed.
When a cat first introduced into an familiar room it will insist on exploring the room thoroughly, walking all around perimeter and sniffing as it goes. Even when there is another cat in the room, it is the that has to be investigated first. A cat usually spends most of its time in what is called its ‘resting area’. This may be the whole house, part of the house, just its bed or even an area outdoors such as a shed or outhouse. Then it also has a ‘territory’ immediately surrounding the resting area which it defends against the other cats and the boundaries of which it makes with scratches and, particularly in the case of the tom cats, with urine. In addition, there is what is sometimes referred to as a ‘home range’ which is large area containing frequently visited area for hunting, sunbathing and keeping watch. Within this area the animal travels along a network of paths.
The home range of domestic female cat in rural area is about one-third of a square mile (1/2 I km square) though inevitably it is smaller in urban and suburban districts. The home range of male cats is several times larger, especially during the mating seasons. The home range may overlap with the ranges of neighboring cats and cats watch carefully to ensure they do not meat other on their travels. If another cat is observed he will wait until the other has moved away sufficiently before he recommences his journey.
Among the methods suggested to prevent cats wandering back to their old territory is the dubious remedy of putting batter paws. The intention is for the cat to be so occupied with licking off the butter that by the time is has finished the urge to return to its former abode has disappeared. But the most successful is simply to confine the cat to his new home for a week (using a litter tray) so that his attachment to it grows and displaces his longing for his previous domain. Then, when the time to comes to let the cat out for the first occasion, do it just before feeding, or ideally when he is asking for food, to ensure his rapid return. On subsequent days, the cat can be let out progressively earlier so that there is a longer interval between being let out and being fed.
When a cat first introduced into an familiar room it will insist on exploring the room thoroughly, walking all around perimeter and sniffing as it goes. Even when there is another cat in the room, it is the that has to be investigated first. A cat usually spends most of its time in what is called its ‘resting area’. This may be the whole house, part of the house, just its bed or even an area outdoors such as a shed or outhouse. Then it also has a ‘territory’ immediately surrounding the resting area which it defends against the other cats and the boundaries of which it makes with scratches and, particularly in the case of the tom cats, with urine. In addition, there is what is sometimes referred to as a ‘home range’ which is large area containing frequently visited area for hunting, sunbathing and keeping watch. Within this area the animal travels along a network of paths.
The home range of domestic female cat in rural area is about one-third of a square mile (1/2 I km square) though inevitably it is smaller in urban and suburban districts. The home range of male cats is several times larger, especially during the mating seasons. The home range may overlap with the ranges of neighboring cats and cats watch carefully to ensure they do not meat other on their travels. If another cat is observed he will wait until the other has moved away sufficiently before he recommences his journey.
Q: How can stop my cat from spraying indoors?
Answer: The reduction of any territorial threat, for example by reducing the number of the cats in the household, is often sufficient to stop spraying.
And moving the animal’s feeding bowl to the spot where spraying occurs will sometimes deter this behavior. Shouting or hitting the cat when it is discovered spraying my be effective but it is thought that in most instances the cat dos not associate his behavior at the time with the way you are treating him. He simply feels that you are being unkind and responds by keeping away from you rather then by not spraying.
The reaction of an unpleasant shock when he begins spraying, especially if its seem to have no direct connection with yourself, is such more likely to deter him. Throwing some noisy object like a bunch of keys to land near the cat has already been recommended, as has spraying him with a water pistol (squirt gun) or best of all throwing a glass of water over him. Although these responses may seem extremely unkind, they do mimic the type of natural ‘disincentive’ by which cats learn to avoid indulging in certain behavior.
Some cats will only spray one or two place regularly. Hanging a piece of aluminum foil in front from them, which will produce an unpleasant rustling sound if sprayed, may discourage the cat. In the case of tom cats, treatment with one of number natural or synthetic female hormones may, although not always, control the problem. The castration of adult males also produces a marked decrease in this behavior (in around 90% of cases) as well as reducing other forms of typical male behavior fighting and roaming.
When spraying (or any undesirable urination) occurs indoors, thoroughly wash the affected area as soon as possible there are four times which diluted bleach (to those surfaces that will stand it) or with white vinegar. Don’t use ammonia because this tends to encourage further urination in the area. If the surface is absorbent (e.g. a carpet or upholstery) soak up as much urine as possible with paper towels before washing, and also bolt up the remaining liquid each time you wash it. Afterwards, the wet area of carpet should be covered with cornflower or baking powder (bicarbonate of soda) and left to dry. When thoroughly dry, the powder can be vacuumed up. It is important not to leave any residual odor because this cats as a ‘mark’ and encourages the cat to spray or urinate in that place again. Spraying is the usual means by which a male cat scent-marks its territorial boundaries.
Motions are also deposited as a marker as the boundary of the cat’s territory. These are not covered by the cat, in contrast to what usually happens to those passed within its territory. The cat may also deliberately defecate in a very prominent and undesirable position indoors if it feels threatened, and make no attempt to hide it.
And moving the animal’s feeding bowl to the spot where spraying occurs will sometimes deter this behavior. Shouting or hitting the cat when it is discovered spraying my be effective but it is thought that in most instances the cat dos not associate his behavior at the time with the way you are treating him. He simply feels that you are being unkind and responds by keeping away from you rather then by not spraying.
The reaction of an unpleasant shock when he begins spraying, especially if its seem to have no direct connection with yourself, is such more likely to deter him. Throwing some noisy object like a bunch of keys to land near the cat has already been recommended, as has spraying him with a water pistol (squirt gun) or best of all throwing a glass of water over him. Although these responses may seem extremely unkind, they do mimic the type of natural ‘disincentive’ by which cats learn to avoid indulging in certain behavior.
Some cats will only spray one or two place regularly. Hanging a piece of aluminum foil in front from them, which will produce an unpleasant rustling sound if sprayed, may discourage the cat. In the case of tom cats, treatment with one of number natural or synthetic female hormones may, although not always, control the problem. The castration of adult males also produces a marked decrease in this behavior (in around 90% of cases) as well as reducing other forms of typical male behavior fighting and roaming.
When spraying (or any undesirable urination) occurs indoors, thoroughly wash the affected area as soon as possible there are four times which diluted bleach (to those surfaces that will stand it) or with white vinegar. Don’t use ammonia because this tends to encourage further urination in the area. If the surface is absorbent (e.g. a carpet or upholstery) soak up as much urine as possible with paper towels before washing, and also bolt up the remaining liquid each time you wash it. Afterwards, the wet area of carpet should be covered with cornflower or baking powder (bicarbonate of soda) and left to dry. When thoroughly dry, the powder can be vacuumed up. It is important not to leave any residual odor because this cats as a ‘mark’ and encourages the cat to spray or urinate in that place again. Spraying is the usual means by which a male cat scent-marks its territorial boundaries.
Motions are also deposited as a marker as the boundary of the cat’s territory. These are not covered by the cat, in contrast to what usually happens to those passed within its territory. The cat may also deliberately defecate in a very prominent and undesirable position indoors if it feels threatened, and make no attempt to hide it.
Q: How can I dispose of soiled litter?
Answer: It is always desirable to burn cat litter to prevent the spread of the infective stage of the common feline parasites (Toxocara cati and Toxoplasma Gondi) or other cats and to other species, including man. Some types (soil and clay) are not intrinsically flammable and will therefore need to be added to an existing fire. Other methods of disposal will not necessary destroy these ineffective stages, merely transfer them elsewhere. The eggs of Toxocara are very resistant to disinfectants and other chemicals and therefore unlikely that they will be killed by chemical treatment before or after disposal.
Therefore, if the incineration of refuse is customary in your area, place the discarded litter and faeces into a plastic bag, seal it and dispose of it with your other rubbish
.
If incineration is difficult to arrange then small amounts of soiled litter be flushed down the toilet, though the large amounts may block the toilet. Some local authorities dump the treated sewage at sea so that environments contamination is animals; other spread it on the land, thereby encouraging widespread contamination. It is not advisable to place soiled litter on a compost heap.
The soiled litter should be removed from the tray each day (use special scoop) and replaced by the fresh. At least once a week (more often if used by more then one cat) the whole trayful should be disposed of and tray itself cleaned. Always were rubber gloves when doing this and do not allow the tray or soiled litter near food preparation areas or kitchen skins.
Wash out the tray thoroughly with hot water and detergent, either outdoor or in the bath, and then disinfect and deodorize with diluted household bleach. When it is dry, refill and replace it. It is recommended to use a deodorizer around the tray, and some from of fly repellant in warm weather.
Therefore, if the incineration of refuse is customary in your area, place the discarded litter and faeces into a plastic bag, seal it and dispose of it with your other rubbish
.
If incineration is difficult to arrange then small amounts of soiled litter be flushed down the toilet, though the large amounts may block the toilet. Some local authorities dump the treated sewage at sea so that environments contamination is animals; other spread it on the land, thereby encouraging widespread contamination. It is not advisable to place soiled litter on a compost heap.
The soiled litter should be removed from the tray each day (use special scoop) and replaced by the fresh. At least once a week (more often if used by more then one cat) the whole trayful should be disposed of and tray itself cleaned. Always were rubber gloves when doing this and do not allow the tray or soiled litter near food preparation areas or kitchen skins.
Wash out the tray thoroughly with hot water and detergent, either outdoor or in the bath, and then disinfect and deodorize with diluted household bleach. When it is dry, refill and replace it. It is recommended to use a deodorizer around the tray, and some from of fly repellant in warm weather.
Q: What type of litter tray should I by for my cat?
Answer: The litter tray’s minimum dimensions should be 12 inches by 8 inches and 2 ½ to 3 inches deep (30cm * 20cm*6.5cm), though a litter shallower for kittens. Those made of plastic are best for routine use, though disposable litter trays of cardboard are available for temporary use. Metal trays which will neither rust (like those made of ferrous metals), nor chip (like enamel dishes), are also suitable. Some types are fitted with a cover about 8 inches or so high, with an opening in one side through which the cat can enter. This completely encloses the litter tray and enables the cat to perform in privacy. It is also avoids the scattering of litter and prevents other pets such as dogs from interfering with the tray.
The scattering of litter can be problem. It can, however, be reduced by standing the tray on the easily cleaned floor, e.g. vinyl or ceramic tails and not on a carpet, and by placing newspaper under the around the tray to minimize the sweeping up. A container with deeper sides (e.g. large plastic washing –up bowl) could be used for adult cats.
Suitable materials for use the litter include sand or sandy soil (through this can become muddy and messy), peat or processed tree bark, torn-up newspaper or kitchen towels, wood chipping or shavings or commercial litters which consists of graduals of dried clay (fuller’s earth).Commercial litters are very useful, but some contain deodorizers which may discourage some cats from using them, or dyes which may stain the fur of white cats. Sawdust is not recommended as it may be eaten by kittens, it clings to the paws and hair coat causing long hair to matt up and is also spread throughout the house. Peat may also cause long hair to matt up. Some people feel that the use of newspaper may encourage the cat urinate on newspapers elsewhere in the house.
Changing the litter is made easier by spreading it to a depth of at least one inch (2.5 cm) on sheets of newspaper laid at the bottom of the tray. Sprinkling the litter with garden soil may simplify re-training the kitten to use the garden at a later date.
The scattering of litter can be problem. It can, however, be reduced by standing the tray on the easily cleaned floor, e.g. vinyl or ceramic tails and not on a carpet, and by placing newspaper under the around the tray to minimize the sweeping up. A container with deeper sides (e.g. large plastic washing –up bowl) could be used for adult cats.
Suitable materials for use the litter include sand or sandy soil (through this can become muddy and messy), peat or processed tree bark, torn-up newspaper or kitchen towels, wood chipping or shavings or commercial litters which consists of graduals of dried clay (fuller’s earth).Commercial litters are very useful, but some contain deodorizers which may discourage some cats from using them, or dyes which may stain the fur of white cats. Sawdust is not recommended as it may be eaten by kittens, it clings to the paws and hair coat causing long hair to matt up and is also spread throughout the house. Peat may also cause long hair to matt up. Some people feel that the use of newspaper may encourage the cat urinate on newspapers elsewhere in the house.
Changing the litter is made easier by spreading it to a depth of at least one inch (2.5 cm) on sheets of newspaper laid at the bottom of the tray. Sprinkling the litter with garden soil may simplify re-training the kitten to use the garden at a later date.
Q: My cat seemed perfectly house trained but recently he has been soiling indoor in different places. Why has he forgotten his training?
Answer: In some cats the training to go outdoors or use a litter tray breaks down and they began to pass urine and motions elsewhere indoors. Sometimes it is due to poor control of the bowel or bladder, due either to old age or illness, but fortunately this is relatively uncommon. Often the behavior is due to dislike of the small of an imperfectly or infrequently cleaned tray, of a deodorized litter, or of some disinfectant used in cleaning. It can also arise where there is overcrowding (too many cats in the household), or simply if one cat objects to using the same box as another (often a newcomer).
At time, the problem follows household changes, such as moving house, the arrival of new pets or children, or simply altering the position of the litter tray. And sometimes it is just that the cat doesn’t care to go outside in wet weather. It could even be that he has become tired of being caught when using the litter tray-t be played with or given medication.
In all these instances the corrective measure are fairly obvious, but there remains the problem of the re-training the cat to use the tray or not some other area in the house. Firstly, the solid area should be thoroughly cleaned, ideally, with bleach or with white vinegar. Then its further use for elimination may be discouraged by one of the following.
1 Prohibiting accesses to the area.
2 Feeding the cat at the spot, since most animals will not eliminate in feeding areas.
3 Covering the area with aluminum foil or plastic sheeting. If, as is hoped, the cat prefers not to
walk on this, it should be left down and only gradually removed, a piece at a time, over several weeks.
If persuading a cat to use the litter tray becomes a real problem, the animal should be confined with the tray to a small room with an easily cleaned floor, e.g. the bathroom or cloakroom, and only allowed out into other areas of the house when the tray is being used regularly.
Alternatively, an extra litter box can be placed at the spot where the cat has been in the habit of urinating. When it has begun to use this new box, it can be removed little (a few inches a day) back to the original site, and the cat fed in the place where previously it had been urinating.
Some cats insist upon using a plant pot as a litter tray; this can be countered by covering its surface with gravel or spraying the plant and the soil surface with white vinegar or cat repellant.
At time, the problem follows household changes, such as moving house, the arrival of new pets or children, or simply altering the position of the litter tray. And sometimes it is just that the cat doesn’t care to go outside in wet weather. It could even be that he has become tired of being caught when using the litter tray-t be played with or given medication.
In all these instances the corrective measure are fairly obvious, but there remains the problem of the re-training the cat to use the tray or not some other area in the house. Firstly, the solid area should be thoroughly cleaned, ideally, with bleach or with white vinegar. Then its further use for elimination may be discouraged by one of the following.
1 Prohibiting accesses to the area.
2 Feeding the cat at the spot, since most animals will not eliminate in feeding areas.
3 Covering the area with aluminum foil or plastic sheeting. If, as is hoped, the cat prefers not to
walk on this, it should be left down and only gradually removed, a piece at a time, over several weeks.
If persuading a cat to use the litter tray becomes a real problem, the animal should be confined with the tray to a small room with an easily cleaned floor, e.g. the bathroom or cloakroom, and only allowed out into other areas of the house when the tray is being used regularly.
Alternatively, an extra litter box can be placed at the spot where the cat has been in the habit of urinating. When it has begun to use this new box, it can be removed little (a few inches a day) back to the original site, and the cat fed in the place where previously it had been urinating.
Some cats insist upon using a plant pot as a litter tray; this can be countered by covering its surface with gravel or spraying the plant and the soil surface with white vinegar or cat repellant.
Q: How can I persuade my cat to use a litter tray?
Answer: Cats are naturally clean animals. The toilet training of cats is made relatively easy because, after the first two to three weeks of life, it is a natural instinct for kittens to urine and defecates in loose, sandy soil. Before this age the mother cat keeps the nest cleans by consuming these waste materials when she licks each kitten. Indeed, it is the stimulation of the mother licking the anal region which causes urine and motions to be passed.
This maternal behavior causes when the kittens are around three weeks of age and they begin to struggle out of the nest. If a litter tray is provide nearby, many will find out it instinctively. Often the mother cat will pick up each kitten in true and carry it to the tray; alternatively, you can place them there yourself. The arrival of fresh food in the stomach stimulates a reflex movement of material though the bowel (the gastro-colic reflex) so that the best time to do this is immediately after each meal.
The cat’s natural is also to dig a shallow hole in which to defecate, and to cover the excrement by scratching the litter backwards with its paws. In the wild this behavior serves to conceal the animal’s presence.
The scent of previous eliminations encourages the kitten to return to the same spot. It is advisable to confine a kitten to the room containing the litter the tray until he has become accustomed to using it, and not to change they tray’s position within the room. Cats like privacy when using the tray and therefore a dimly lit secluded area, out of the reach of the young children, is preferable.
If a kitten uses the wrong spot, immediately place it gently but firmly into the litter box and clean the solid area, ideally with white vinegar or with dilute bleach if the floor covering will withstand it. Don’t use ammonia, which often encourages further urination there. By eight weeks old kitten should be almost completely house trained.
It is advisable to provide a litter try at night even when a cat is adult, and cats without access to garden will require one permanently. Cats they are ill may be also need to use a litter try, and this arrangement allows the motion to be inspected and, if require, collected for examination.
Once a kitten a accustomed to using a litter tray it can, if necessary, be trained to urine and defecate outdoor This is best done during dry weather. On successive days the litter tray is moved progressively nearer to external door and eventually just outside it. Some already soiled litter should then be placed in the garden and the kitten carried to it after feeding. A day or so should produce the desire result.(Using this type of ‘successive approximation’ training it is even possible to train a cat to defecate and urinate in the household toilet. Whether this is desirable remains a debatable point.)
If a cat accidentally passes a motion on to the edge of its litter tray, it will attempt to cover it by pawing and scratching at the area around the tray, even though there is obviously no litter there. This is an example of the deeply-rooted type of instinctive behavior referred to as ‘displacement activity’.
This maternal behavior causes when the kittens are around three weeks of age and they begin to struggle out of the nest. If a litter tray is provide nearby, many will find out it instinctively. Often the mother cat will pick up each kitten in true and carry it to the tray; alternatively, you can place them there yourself. The arrival of fresh food in the stomach stimulates a reflex movement of material though the bowel (the gastro-colic reflex) so that the best time to do this is immediately after each meal.
The cat’s natural is also to dig a shallow hole in which to defecate, and to cover the excrement by scratching the litter backwards with its paws. In the wild this behavior serves to conceal the animal’s presence.
The scent of previous eliminations encourages the kitten to return to the same spot. It is advisable to confine a kitten to the room containing the litter the tray until he has become accustomed to using it, and not to change they tray’s position within the room. Cats like privacy when using the tray and therefore a dimly lit secluded area, out of the reach of the young children, is preferable.
If a kitten uses the wrong spot, immediately place it gently but firmly into the litter box and clean the solid area, ideally with white vinegar or with dilute bleach if the floor covering will withstand it. Don’t use ammonia, which often encourages further urination there. By eight weeks old kitten should be almost completely house trained.
It is advisable to provide a litter try at night even when a cat is adult, and cats without access to garden will require one permanently. Cats they are ill may be also need to use a litter try, and this arrangement allows the motion to be inspected and, if require, collected for examination.
Once a kitten a accustomed to using a litter tray it can, if necessary, be trained to urine and defecate outdoor This is best done during dry weather. On successive days the litter tray is moved progressively nearer to external door and eventually just outside it. Some already soiled litter should then be placed in the garden and the kitten carried to it after feeding. A day or so should produce the desire result.(Using this type of ‘successive approximation’ training it is even possible to train a cat to defecate and urinate in the household toilet. Whether this is desirable remains a debatable point.)
If a cat accidentally passes a motion on to the edge of its litter tray, it will attempt to cover it by pawing and scratching at the area around the tray, even though there is obviously no litter there. This is an example of the deeply-rooted type of instinctive behavior referred to as ‘displacement activity’.
Q: What general methods can be used to train a cat?
Answer: In training it is impotent to be firm but fair. With your eyes on the kittens, speak your command words in a firm voice, and at the same time show to kitten what action is required or not require of him. For example, ‘Down’ as the kitten is lifted from the chair which is has climbed. ’Out’ as it is placed outdoors in toilet training, and the multi-purpose ‘No’ when it is removed to prevent it from containing.
It is, of course, not only the word but the manner in which it is spoken and the whole attitude of the owner which helps to convey its mining to the cat. Keep to the same routine, always using the same word for the same activity and say it as if you mean business. Later, if the cat ignores you, it is important to correct its behavior immediately. Otherwise, it can easily develop in to the equivalent of an awful child who blithely does whatever it wants whilst its parents lamely and ineffectually beg it to stoop. Undesirable behavior must be checked as soon as it appears; habit that appear cute in a kitten, like scratching or climbing up clothing, are not so amusing when they persist, as they will in the adult cat.
Feeding the cat before meals are prepared for the human members of the household will discourage stealing and begging for food. Cats can be rewarded for their good behavior by receiving extra attention and affection from the owner, or to sit in some favorite place. Never feed the cat directly after it has been badly because this is likely to be miss interpreted as a ‘reward’ and will thus encourage further similar occurrences.
When an older cat misbehaves, the punishment should be related to the problem. Hitting the cat with a rolled newspaper is effective if it scratches bites or growls, since this is how another more dominant cat would deal with it. However, to prevent other types of misbehaviors, hitting, shouting or throwing things, although temporarily effective, may result in the cat fighting back or rushing wait and in the long term continually avoiding you.
A cat appears to associate the punishment more with the person delivering it than with the behavior that caused it. Consequently, some form of aversion therapy is required, i.e. in which the punishment is directly associated with its behavior. Comparatively harmless but unpleasant shocks delivered remotely, i.e. without or apparently without, human involvement, are very effective. Spraying with water from a water pistol or dropping a bunch of keys are useful procedures, but ideally the cat must not see you doing the spraying or dropping. This also requires someone to be present whenever the cat is likely to misbehave.
A truly remote method is to protect areas where the cat may misbehave with a crinkled aluminum foil to give an unpleasant feel and sound. Balloons, which hopefully will burst and mousetraps (arranged upside downside after being set), which when disturbed will go off, will also provide a nasty shock. Often only two or three such deterrent treatments are necessary for the cat to abandon its undesirable behavior.
Drugs are not able to help correct behavioral problems, with the exception of progestagens and cyprodione which are effective in control ling urine spraying, roaming and fighting in a high proportion of tom cats.
It is, of course, not only the word but the manner in which it is spoken and the whole attitude of the owner which helps to convey its mining to the cat. Keep to the same routine, always using the same word for the same activity and say it as if you mean business. Later, if the cat ignores you, it is important to correct its behavior immediately. Otherwise, it can easily develop in to the equivalent of an awful child who blithely does whatever it wants whilst its parents lamely and ineffectually beg it to stoop. Undesirable behavior must be checked as soon as it appears; habit that appear cute in a kitten, like scratching or climbing up clothing, are not so amusing when they persist, as they will in the adult cat.
Feeding the cat before meals are prepared for the human members of the household will discourage stealing and begging for food. Cats can be rewarded for their good behavior by receiving extra attention and affection from the owner, or to sit in some favorite place. Never feed the cat directly after it has been badly because this is likely to be miss interpreted as a ‘reward’ and will thus encourage further similar occurrences.
When an older cat misbehaves, the punishment should be related to the problem. Hitting the cat with a rolled newspaper is effective if it scratches bites or growls, since this is how another more dominant cat would deal with it. However, to prevent other types of misbehaviors, hitting, shouting or throwing things, although temporarily effective, may result in the cat fighting back or rushing wait and in the long term continually avoiding you.
A cat appears to associate the punishment more with the person delivering it than with the behavior that caused it. Consequently, some form of aversion therapy is required, i.e. in which the punishment is directly associated with its behavior. Comparatively harmless but unpleasant shocks delivered remotely, i.e. without or apparently without, human involvement, are very effective. Spraying with water from a water pistol or dropping a bunch of keys are useful procedures, but ideally the cat must not see you doing the spraying or dropping. This also requires someone to be present whenever the cat is likely to misbehave.
A truly remote method is to protect areas where the cat may misbehave with a crinkled aluminum foil to give an unpleasant feel and sound. Balloons, which hopefully will burst and mousetraps (arranged upside downside after being set), which when disturbed will go off, will also provide a nasty shock. Often only two or three such deterrent treatments are necessary for the cat to abandon its undesirable behavior.
Drugs are not able to help correct behavioral problems, with the exception of progestagens and cyprodione which are effective in control ling urine spraying, roaming and fighting in a high proportion of tom cats.
Q: What basic behavior should I expect from a properly trained cat?
By the time a cat is adult it should have been trained:
1 To be clean in the house and use a litter if necessary.
2 To sleep in its own bed.
3 To come in, answer to its name and know the meaning of certain ‘command’ words.
4 Not to scratch the furniture, carpets or walls.
5 Not to claw or climb the curtains.
6 Not to climb on the furniture or food preparation surfaces.
7 Not to steal food from plates.
8 Not to eat flowers or houseplants indoors.
9 Not to be unduly aggressive.
Training should start at an early age so that the cat doesn’t develop bad habits that may prove difficult or impossible to eradicate afterwards. It is important to realize from the outset that either you or the cat is going to be the dominate personality. If you allow it to be the cat you will almost certainly regret it later.
Toilet training, under the mother cat’s supervision, will start as early as three weeks’ old; the other training from around six to eight weeks, they start of the important socializing period of a cat’s life. During this period cats will adjust naturally to the presence of people and other pets, to being handled and to the animal noises of the household. Kittens which are not adequately handled and trained during the early weeks and mouths of life will usually be difficult to handle when they grow older, particularly by Strangers or outside their normal environment. A name should be chosen as spoken whilst the kittens is being stroked and played with so that it beings to associate the name with itself.
1 To be clean in the house and use a litter if necessary.
2 To sleep in its own bed.
3 To come in, answer to its name and know the meaning of certain ‘command’ words.
4 Not to scratch the furniture, carpets or walls.
5 Not to claw or climb the curtains.
6 Not to climb on the furniture or food preparation surfaces.
7 Not to steal food from plates.
8 Not to eat flowers or houseplants indoors.
9 Not to be unduly aggressive.
Training should start at an early age so that the cat doesn’t develop bad habits that may prove difficult or impossible to eradicate afterwards. It is important to realize from the outset that either you or the cat is going to be the dominate personality. If you allow it to be the cat you will almost certainly regret it later.
Toilet training, under the mother cat’s supervision, will start as early as three weeks’ old; the other training from around six to eight weeks, they start of the important socializing period of a cat’s life. During this period cats will adjust naturally to the presence of people and other pets, to being handled and to the animal noises of the household. Kittens which are not adequately handled and trained during the early weeks and mouths of life will usually be difficult to handle when they grow older, particularly by Strangers or outside their normal environment. A name should be chosen as spoken whilst the kittens is being stroked and played with so that it beings to associate the name with itself.
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