Answer: Don’t use drops or ointment unless your veterinary surgeon has advised it. Certain
preparations can be quite unsuitable for a particular purpose.
For instance, many preparations contain corticosteroids which, if applied to an eye
ulcer, will prevent it from healing. Remember too that some proprietary preparations sold
for human use are unsuitable for conditions affecting the cat’s eye. It is far preferable
to seek early advice from your vet about any eye problem.
Showing posts with label Nursing the Sick Cat. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Nursing the Sick Cat. Show all posts
Q: What is the best method of bathing a cat’s eye?
Answer: Bathing a cat’s eye is useful as a first aid measure to help flush pieces of grit
or a grass seed, etc., out of the eye, or where the eyelids have become gummed together by
discharges.
Either a patent human eye lotion can be prepared as directed by the manufacture, or a
warm boric acid lotion can be made by dissolving two level teaspoonful of boric acid
crystals in half a tumbler of lukewarm water. In an emergency, or if nothing else is
available, just use warm water. Don’t add salt to it; if too much is added the resultant
brine will be very irritant and damaging.
With some else to restrain the cat, soak a small pad of cotton wool or lint in the water
or eye lotion, and squeeze the liquid out onto the lids, or onto the surface of the
eyeball.
Wet cotton wool, twisted into a spiral, can be used to gently brush away any foreign body
from the surface of the eyeball, provided that isn’t repeated to often. With eyelids which
are stuck together the wet pad should be gently wiped over the outer surface, mainly using
an outward movement, i.e. from the nose towards the side of the face, until the lids
gradually become free. Then the surface of the eyeball should be bathed. Repeated
re-soaking of the pad may be necessary. Finally, the surrounding skin area should be tried.
If there is obvious infection beneath the lids, or foreign body cannot be removed,
veterinary help must be obtained. If pain persists in the eye and the animal tries to rub
it, place one to three drops of warm olive oil onto the eye with an eye dropper or, in an
emergency, drop the oil from the blunt end of the pencil. Try to prevent the cat from undue
rubbing of the eye until the vet can attend to it.
Eye baths, as used by humans, are the wrong size and shape for use with cat’s eyes, so
don’t bother trying to find one. Finally, a word of warning: never let any dry material
contact the surface of the eye; it will stick to the moist surface and, when pulled off,
will remove the outer layer of cells.
or a grass seed, etc., out of the eye, or where the eyelids have become gummed together by
discharges.
Either a patent human eye lotion can be prepared as directed by the manufacture, or a
warm boric acid lotion can be made by dissolving two level teaspoonful of boric acid
crystals in half a tumbler of lukewarm water. In an emergency, or if nothing else is
available, just use warm water. Don’t add salt to it; if too much is added the resultant
brine will be very irritant and damaging.
With some else to restrain the cat, soak a small pad of cotton wool or lint in the water
or eye lotion, and squeeze the liquid out onto the lids, or onto the surface of the
eyeball.
Wet cotton wool, twisted into a spiral, can be used to gently brush away any foreign body
from the surface of the eyeball, provided that isn’t repeated to often. With eyelids which
are stuck together the wet pad should be gently wiped over the outer surface, mainly using
an outward movement, i.e. from the nose towards the side of the face, until the lids
gradually become free. Then the surface of the eyeball should be bathed. Repeated
re-soaking of the pad may be necessary. Finally, the surrounding skin area should be tried.
If there is obvious infection beneath the lids, or foreign body cannot be removed,
veterinary help must be obtained. If pain persists in the eye and the animal tries to rub
it, place one to three drops of warm olive oil onto the eye with an eye dropper or, in an
emergency, drop the oil from the blunt end of the pencil. Try to prevent the cat from undue
rubbing of the eye until the vet can attend to it.
Eye baths, as used by humans, are the wrong size and shape for use with cat’s eyes, so
don’t bother trying to find one. Finally, a word of warning: never let any dry material
contact the surface of the eye; it will stick to the moist surface and, when pulled off,
will remove the outer layer of cells.
Q: If my cat is ill would it be a good idea to give him a hot-water bottle?
Answer: This is useful way of supplying heat to an ill or cold animal, attention should be
paid to the following points:
1 The hot-water should never be filled with very hot water, and certainly not boiling
water. It must always be well wrapped-up in a towel, or else placed in a specials hot water
bottle cover which totally encloses it. This is to avoid causing burning of the skin which
can be extensive and may result in the loss of the skin over a large area of the body.
2 Animals which are seriously ill, or even unconscious, will be unable to move away from
a hot-water bottle and this could lead to overheating. Therefore the bottle should be warm,
rather then hot.
3 Severely shocked animals will suffer if their body temperature is suddenly raised much
higher then that of their surroundings. So again, the hot-water bottle should be kept only
warm.
4 After filling, check that the bottle is watertight and, at intervals during its use,
check that the cover is still in place and that and that the bottle is not leaking.
An infra re-heater securely fastened at least 3 feet above the cat’s bed could be used
instead. It will supply radiant heat continuously and from time to time you should check
that the cat is not too warm, especially in summer. Special electric blankets can also be
obtained, preferably fitted with a thermostat so that the heat output can be controlled.
There are other alternatives too. If an electricity supply is unavailable, a pet bed
warmer can be used. This is sealed metal box in which solid fuel stick burns for about
eight hours. Again, the warmer should be well wrapped, but not in synthetic fabrics, such
as acrylic, which may melt. For gentle warmth, a temporary bed could be made up for your
cat in the airing cupboard.
paid to the following points:
1 The hot-water should never be filled with very hot water, and certainly not boiling
water. It must always be well wrapped-up in a towel, or else placed in a specials hot water
bottle cover which totally encloses it. This is to avoid causing burning of the skin which
can be extensive and may result in the loss of the skin over a large area of the body.
2 Animals which are seriously ill, or even unconscious, will be unable to move away from
a hot-water bottle and this could lead to overheating. Therefore the bottle should be warm,
rather then hot.
3 Severely shocked animals will suffer if their body temperature is suddenly raised much
higher then that of their surroundings. So again, the hot-water bottle should be kept only
warm.
4 After filling, check that the bottle is watertight and, at intervals during its use,
check that the cover is still in place and that and that the bottle is not leaking.
An infra re-heater securely fastened at least 3 feet above the cat’s bed could be used
instead. It will supply radiant heat continuously and from time to time you should check
that the cat is not too warm, especially in summer. Special electric blankets can also be
obtained, preferably fitted with a thermostat so that the heat output can be controlled.
There are other alternatives too. If an electricity supply is unavailable, a pet bed
warmer can be used. This is sealed metal box in which solid fuel stick burns for about
eight hours. Again, the warmer should be well wrapped, but not in synthetic fabrics, such
as acrylic, which may melt. For gentle warmth, a temporary bed could be made up for your
cat in the airing cupboard.
Q: How can I stop my cat from chewing at its bandage?
Answer: Some cats seen unable to leave a bandage or other dressing alone, and they will
repeatedly chew, suck or lick at it. A check should be made that the bandage is not too
tight and that the wound beneath it is clean and dry. Having ruled out such cases of
irritation, there are really three basic ways to tackle this problem.
The is to cover the bandage with some very strong, waterproof material. This provides
additional protection, and hopefully will prove so difficult to remove that the cat will be
unable to penetrate it, and may even give up trying. Very strong adhesive tape can be used
as complete covering. Materials like vinyl sheeting a leather have also been employed,
either wrapped around a limb and scoured with tape, or made up into booties and laced up to
fit securely around the limb. However, these coverings are heavy and rigid, often causing
the limb to be dragged, and a really determined cat can still chew through them.
The second method is to cover the outside of the bandage in some material that is
noon-poisonous but testes so unpleasant that the cat will leave it alone. Again, this is by
no means foolproof but cab at times be successful. These substances employed are usually
those with an acid or bitter taste, or which produce a burning sensation, for example
aromatic bitters, white vinegar, lemon juice, Tabasco sauce, or curry paste. Probably the
best, though expensive for repeated application, are preparations intended to stop humans
from chewing their fingernails.
The third and usually the most successful technique is to enclose the side of the head so
that the cat cannot bring its mouth into contact with the wound. Because of the shape of
the cat’s head, muzzles are not very same stiff material such as vinyl or sturdy cardboard.
The idea is not provide the cat with a cane-shaped ruff which fits to its existing collar
and encloses its head.
Answer: Some cats seen unable to leave a bandage or other dressing alone, and they will
repeatedly chew, suck or lick at it. A check should be made that the bandage is not too
tight and that the wound beneath it is clean and dry. Having ruled out such cases of
irritation, there are really three basic ways to tackle this problem.
The is to cover the bandage with some very strong, waterproof material. This provides
additional protection, and hopefully will prove so difficult to remove that the cat will be
unable to penetrate it, and may even give up trying. Very strong adhesive tape can be used
as complete covering. Materials like vinyl sheeting a leather have also been employed,
either wrapped around a limb and scoured with tape, or made up into booties and laced up to
fit securely around the limb. However, these coverings are heavy and rigid, often causing
the limb to be dragged, and a really determined cat can still chew through them.
The second method is to cover the outside of the bandage in some material that is
noon-poisonous but testes so unpleasant that the cat will leave it alone. Again, this is by
no means foolproof but cab at times be successful. These substances employed are usually
those with an acid or bitter taste, or which produce a burning sensation, for example
aromatic bitters, white vinegar, lemon juice, Tabasco sauce, or curry paste. Probably the
best, though expensive for repeated application, are preparations intended to stop humans
from chewing their fingernails.
The third and usually the most successful technique is to enclose the side of the head so
that the cat cannot bring its mouth into contact with the wound. Because of the shape of
the cat’s head, muzzles are not very same stiff material such as vinyl or sturdy cardboard.
The idea is not provide the cat with a cane-shaped ruff which fits to its existing collar
and encloses its head.
Q: What is a many-tailed bandage, and is it suitable for a cat?
Answer: A many-tailed bandage is rectangular binder which covers the lower part of the
chest and abdomen and is used to protect wounds in those areas. It is not a type of a
bandage that is often used on a cat, probably because suitable size are not made
commercially. But it can prove useful, for example in protecting spay wounds where cats
have a tendency to interfere to them. It can be made of linen or muslin, or any reasonably
strong, closely woven material.
For an adult cat, the rectangle needs to measure approximately 8 to 9 inches by up to 2
feet, depending on the animal’s width, Straight cuts are made about every 1 ½ inches along
each of the short sides. These cats should run for about one third of the material’s width,
thus producing a number of ‘tails’ along each of these sides; the number of each side must
be equal.
If necessary, a dressing of cotton wool or lint is first applied to the wound and then
the bandage is placed beneath the chest and abdomen with the tails protruding on either
side. Each pair of tails (right and left) is in turn brought up the sides of the animal and
the tails tied together over the cat’s back.
chest and abdomen and is used to protect wounds in those areas. It is not a type of a
bandage that is often used on a cat, probably because suitable size are not made
commercially. But it can prove useful, for example in protecting spay wounds where cats
have a tendency to interfere to them. It can be made of linen or muslin, or any reasonably
strong, closely woven material.
For an adult cat, the rectangle needs to measure approximately 8 to 9 inches by up to 2
feet, depending on the animal’s width, Straight cuts are made about every 1 ½ inches along
each of the short sides. These cats should run for about one third of the material’s width,
thus producing a number of ‘tails’ along each of these sides; the number of each side must
be equal.
If necessary, a dressing of cotton wool or lint is first applied to the wound and then
the bandage is placed beneath the chest and abdomen with the tails protruding on either
side. Each pair of tails (right and left) is in turn brought up the sides of the animal and
the tails tied together over the cat’s back.
Q: How should I apply a bandage to my cat?
Answer: Fortunately, there are few occasions on which it will ever be necessary to bandage
a cat. As a general rule bandaging by an owner is most likely to be a first aid procedure
used to stop severe haemorrhage, seal penetrating chest wound or to provide support, and
limit movement, in the case of fracture limb or tail.
Most of the familiar rolled bandages employed by doctors and vets are made from rigid
open-weave cotton, which is cut to the require length and discarded after being used once.
However, for those unused to bandaging, a crepe bandage is much easier to apply and has a
batter chance of staying in place. Crepe bandages are made from a stretch cotton which is
much less likely to work loose. The are fastened with a safety pin and, because of their
cost, are usually are not cut and are re-used after washing and drying. Those of 2 inches’
(5 cm) width are most suitable for use on the cat.
Unless the cat is unconscious, it will need to be restrained on a table by a helper
holding its scruff, whilst you apply the bandage the job is simpler if the cat lies on its
side with that limb uppermost. And unless the bandage is being applied solely to prevent
the cat interfering with a wound, a pad of lint of cotton wool ½ inch (1 cm) thick should
first be placed on the surface of the body.
Unroll only a few inches of bandage before you start; have the rest tightly rolled up.
Starting a few inches to one side of the area to be covered, gradually wind the bandage
round and round the affected part of the body, unrolling it as you go. In the case of limb
or the tail, being to bandage furthest away from the rest of the body and gradually work
towards it. The second turn of the bandage should completely overlap the first; after that
each turn should overlap two-thirds of the previous one. If the bandage has to go around
the chest or abdomen it will need to be pushed under the body on each turn.
Generally a moderate degree of tension should be retained in the bandage to prevent it
becoming slack, though if a pressure bandage is being apply to stop haemorrhage this may
need to be slightly tighter in order to be effective. Take care though not to have the
bandage too tight or it might cat as a tourniquet and stop the circulation of blood; around
the nick, it might also interfere with the cat’s breathing.
It helps to secure the bandage more firmly if, after every two or three turns, the
bandage, whilst it is still under tension, is twisted, so that the inside surface now
becomes the outside and vice versa; this is called spiral bandage with reverses. Whether
you bandage in a clockwise or an anticlockwise direction is immaterial and is largely a
matter of conveniences, depending on whether you are right or left-handed.
After covering the affected area, and going a few inches beyond it, the bandage can be
cut and pinned in place. But often to preserve the entire bandage intact, it is preferable
to work back over the first set of bandaging until the bandage runs out, and then to pint
it securely with the safety pin provided. Take care not to accidentally pint the skin as
well.
Check the end of bandage limb, or tail, from time to time for any sign of swelling which
would indicate that the bandage is too tight. Then it must be removed immediately and
re-applied with less tension. If it works loose, or is interfered with, it should also be
removed straight away and re-applied a little more tightly. But bandaging will usually be
required only in an emergency; if you are to change dressing on a regular basis a
veterinary surgeons will tell you how often to do this.
Answer: Fortunately, there are few occasions on which it will ever be necessary to bandage
a cat. As a general rule bandaging by an owner is most likely to be a first aid procedure
used to stop severe haemorrhage, seal penetrating chest wound or to provide support, and
limit movement, in the case of fracture limb or tail.
Most of the familiar rolled bandages employed by doctors and vets are made from rigid
open-weave cotton, which is cut to the require length and discarded after being used once.
However, for those unused to bandaging, a crepe bandage is much easier to apply and has a
batter chance of staying in place. Crepe bandages are made from a stretch cotton which is
much less likely to work loose. The are fastened with a safety pin and, because of their
cost, are usually are not cut and are re-used after washing and drying. Those of 2 inches’
(5 cm) width are most suitable for use on the cat.
Unless the cat is unconscious, it will need to be restrained on a table by a helper
holding its scruff, whilst you apply the bandage the job is simpler if the cat lies on its
side with that limb uppermost. And unless the bandage is being applied solely to prevent
the cat interfering with a wound, a pad of lint of cotton wool ½ inch (1 cm) thick should
first be placed on the surface of the body.
Unroll only a few inches of bandage before you start; have the rest tightly rolled up.
Starting a few inches to one side of the area to be covered, gradually wind the bandage
round and round the affected part of the body, unrolling it as you go. In the case of limb
or the tail, being to bandage furthest away from the rest of the body and gradually work
towards it. The second turn of the bandage should completely overlap the first; after that
each turn should overlap two-thirds of the previous one. If the bandage has to go around
the chest or abdomen it will need to be pushed under the body on each turn.
Generally a moderate degree of tension should be retained in the bandage to prevent it
becoming slack, though if a pressure bandage is being apply to stop haemorrhage this may
need to be slightly tighter in order to be effective. Take care though not to have the
bandage too tight or it might cat as a tourniquet and stop the circulation of blood; around
the nick, it might also interfere with the cat’s breathing.
It helps to secure the bandage more firmly if, after every two or three turns, the
bandage, whilst it is still under tension, is twisted, so that the inside surface now
becomes the outside and vice versa; this is called spiral bandage with reverses. Whether
you bandage in a clockwise or an anticlockwise direction is immaterial and is largely a
matter of conveniences, depending on whether you are right or left-handed.
After covering the affected area, and going a few inches beyond it, the bandage can be
cut and pinned in place. But often to preserve the entire bandage intact, it is preferable
to work back over the first set of bandaging until the bandage runs out, and then to pint
it securely with the safety pin provided. Take care not to accidentally pint the skin as
well.
Check the end of bandage limb, or tail, from time to time for any sign of swelling which
would indicate that the bandage is too tight. Then it must be removed immediately and
re-applied with less tension. If it works loose, or is interfered with, it should also be
removed straight away and re-applied a little more tightly. But bandaging will usually be
required only in an emergency; if you are to change dressing on a regular basis a
veterinary surgeons will tell you how often to do this.
Q: The vet has bandaged my cat’s leg. How can I try to keep the dressing dry?
Answer: If you find your cat spends an excessive amount of the time licking the bandage, do
your best to prevent it, if necessary by the methods described later.
As far as possible the cat should be kept the dressing dry. A bandage which is which is
already wet will have to be replaced with a dry one to prevent chafing of the wound.
It is possible to cover the bandage completely with waterproof adhesive tape. A number of
the separate short strips, passing in different directions, should be applied to cover the
paw, and then the tape wound in a spiral up the leg with each turn overlapping the previous
one. However this arrangement can be very difficult to move again and a simpler method it
is place the bandaged limb inside an appropriately-sized polythene bag. Any spare width of
the bag should be wrapped around the leg and the whole thing scoured in place at a number
of points with piece adhesive tape which pass completely around the limb to overlap
themselves. Have one of these pieces of tape right at the tope so that half of its width
sticks to the bag and half to the cat’s hair and skin; this stops the bag working loose and
dropping off.
Dry the bag when the cat returns from outdoor and if it becomes punctured remove it and
replace it. If the bandage has become wet, it also will need renewing.
One long-term treatment popular in North America was to apply pain pitch (resin)
liberally over the bandage and allow it to dry. However pain pitch may be difficult to
obtained, and in any case the bandage cannot easily be unraveled afterwards and has usually
to be cut away.
your best to prevent it, if necessary by the methods described later.
As far as possible the cat should be kept the dressing dry. A bandage which is which is
already wet will have to be replaced with a dry one to prevent chafing of the wound.
It is possible to cover the bandage completely with waterproof adhesive tape. A number of
the separate short strips, passing in different directions, should be applied to cover the
paw, and then the tape wound in a spiral up the leg with each turn overlapping the previous
one. However this arrangement can be very difficult to move again and a simpler method it
is place the bandaged limb inside an appropriately-sized polythene bag. Any spare width of
the bag should be wrapped around the leg and the whole thing scoured in place at a number
of points with piece adhesive tape which pass completely around the limb to overlap
themselves. Have one of these pieces of tape right at the tope so that half of its width
sticks to the bag and half to the cat’s hair and skin; this stops the bag working loose and
dropping off.
Dry the bag when the cat returns from outdoor and if it becomes punctured remove it and
replace it. If the bandage has become wet, it also will need renewing.
One long-term treatment popular in North America was to apply pain pitch (resin)
liberally over the bandage and allow it to dry. However pain pitch may be difficult to
obtained, and in any case the bandage cannot easily be unraveled afterwards and has usually
to be cut away.
Q: Most cats seem to hate bandages. Is it always better to led wound heal on its own rather then to cover it up?
Answer: Whether a wound is produced accidently or following surgery, there a number of reasons for dressing or bandaging it:
1 to stop any bleeding by applying pressure (pressure bandage), though this is usually only temporary measure.
2 To prevent the wound becoming contaminated by bacteria and other micro-organisms, inert materials such as grit, dirt, loose hair, and even in hot weather, by blowflies laying their eggs in the wound. These eggs will later hatch into maggots which will feed on the cat’s flesh; this is particularly likely to occur in old and debilitated animals.
3 To prevent the cat interfering with the wound. Repeated licking will delay healing, may introduce infection and may give rise to a thick mass of shiny tissue, a lick granuloma. Cats may even remove stitches placed in the skin by betting, through the suture material and pulling with their teeth. This can cause the edges of the wound to pull a part before healing is complete (wound breakdown).
4 To provide support, for instance, where there is also sprain or strain, or where there may be undue tension on surgical stitches. In cats with fractures the bandages may hold supporting splint in place.
5 To immobilize a part of the body. This will prevent further damage which could be caused by the cat putting weight on to a wounded limb, dragging paralysed limb or banging a damaged tail.
In general, wounds do seem to heal faster if they can be kept open to the air rather then covered. However this presupposes that some other way can be found to deal with the problems described above. Unfortunately, in many cases some from of dressing is essential; the extensive wounds caused by burns, for example, are almost certain to become infected if they are exposed.
The disadvantage of wound dressing is that they may stick to the wound surface. They can also become wet and then rub and chafe the wound. Both of these occurrences will delay healing. Dressing cab be wetted by the serum which inevitable exude from the wounds, by exposure to rain, dew on the ground, or puddles, and even by excessive licking or sweating. Serums, a discharge from a wound, can be absorbed by surrounding it with a lot of cotton wool or similar material, but this can make the wound very hot and irritating. If it is possible for the wound to be left open, the liquid will evaporate leaving the wound dry.
Some type of wound are best never bandaged, mainly infected wounds with small openings. These include the frequently-encountered punctured wounds caused by other cat’s bites, or discharging channels from abscesses. Such wounds should be left open for draining and regular treatment. Other small wounds, for example those of the spaying operation, are not usually dressed.
It may sometimes be necessary to fit an ‘Elizabethan’ collar to prevent the cat from interfering with an exposed wound.
1 to stop any bleeding by applying pressure (pressure bandage), though this is usually only temporary measure.
2 To prevent the wound becoming contaminated by bacteria and other micro-organisms, inert materials such as grit, dirt, loose hair, and even in hot weather, by blowflies laying their eggs in the wound. These eggs will later hatch into maggots which will feed on the cat’s flesh; this is particularly likely to occur in old and debilitated animals.
3 To prevent the cat interfering with the wound. Repeated licking will delay healing, may introduce infection and may give rise to a thick mass of shiny tissue, a lick granuloma. Cats may even remove stitches placed in the skin by betting, through the suture material and pulling with their teeth. This can cause the edges of the wound to pull a part before healing is complete (wound breakdown).
4 To provide support, for instance, where there is also sprain or strain, or where there may be undue tension on surgical stitches. In cats with fractures the bandages may hold supporting splint in place.
5 To immobilize a part of the body. This will prevent further damage which could be caused by the cat putting weight on to a wounded limb, dragging paralysed limb or banging a damaged tail.
In general, wounds do seem to heal faster if they can be kept open to the air rather then covered. However this presupposes that some other way can be found to deal with the problems described above. Unfortunately, in many cases some from of dressing is essential; the extensive wounds caused by burns, for example, are almost certain to become infected if they are exposed.
The disadvantage of wound dressing is that they may stick to the wound surface. They can also become wet and then rub and chafe the wound. Both of these occurrences will delay healing. Dressing cab be wetted by the serum which inevitable exude from the wounds, by exposure to rain, dew on the ground, or puddles, and even by excessive licking or sweating. Serums, a discharge from a wound, can be absorbed by surrounding it with a lot of cotton wool or similar material, but this can make the wound very hot and irritating. If it is possible for the wound to be left open, the liquid will evaporate leaving the wound dry.
Some type of wound are best never bandaged, mainly infected wounds with small openings. These include the frequently-encountered punctured wounds caused by other cat’s bites, or discharging channels from abscesses. Such wounds should be left open for draining and regular treatment. Other small wounds, for example those of the spaying operation, are not usually dressed.
It may sometimes be necessary to fit an ‘Elizabethan’ collar to prevent the cat from interfering with an exposed wound.
Q: How should I clean a wound?
Answer: A wound recently inflicted (especially of the irregular type known as lacerated wounds) may be dirty. An older wound may be infected with bacteria and discharging pus. Both will require cleaning before being dressed or re-dressed.
Cleaning will be made easier, especially in a long-haired cat, if the hair around the wound is first clipped. Before clipping, the wound must be covered or plugged with a piece of moistened, clean cotton wool the stop any hair straying in.
Then clean the wound using a pad of clean gauze, cotton wool or lint, or even, in an emergency, paper towels. Soak the pad first in the tepid water; cleaning will be made easier if it contains a small amount of the detergent antiseptic such as cetrimide. This is used primarily because of its detergent effect, not for its limited antibacterial action. Other non-detergent antiseptics should not be used because most of them poor at killing bacteria and some may cause skin reactions or delay healing. Certainly, do not use any household disinfectants. An alternative is to rub the wet pad on the tablet of toilet soap, though not carbolic or coal tar soaps because of their toxicity for cats. Washing is much the most effective way of removing bacteria.
Lightly wring out the pad and with it gently dab and wipe away the dirt and/or pus. If you are too vigorous in cleaning you may damage the exposed blood vessels and cause bleeding; if this happens, immediately stop further cleaning. The continual oozing of blood can be controlled by holding in place for a few minutes a pad soaked in cold water. Dab the wound dry with clean pieces of gauze, lint or paper towels.
To keep the wound clean and prevent it from being interfered with, apply a pad gauze or lint, securing it in place either with a crepe bandage or adhesive tape. If adhesive tape is used, cut a piece long enough to overlap itself when in place.
Cleaning will be made easier, especially in a long-haired cat, if the hair around the wound is first clipped. Before clipping, the wound must be covered or plugged with a piece of moistened, clean cotton wool the stop any hair straying in.
Then clean the wound using a pad of clean gauze, cotton wool or lint, or even, in an emergency, paper towels. Soak the pad first in the tepid water; cleaning will be made easier if it contains a small amount of the detergent antiseptic such as cetrimide. This is used primarily because of its detergent effect, not for its limited antibacterial action. Other non-detergent antiseptics should not be used because most of them poor at killing bacteria and some may cause skin reactions or delay healing. Certainly, do not use any household disinfectants. An alternative is to rub the wet pad on the tablet of toilet soap, though not carbolic or coal tar soaps because of their toxicity for cats. Washing is much the most effective way of removing bacteria.
Lightly wring out the pad and with it gently dab and wipe away the dirt and/or pus. If you are too vigorous in cleaning you may damage the exposed blood vessels and cause bleeding; if this happens, immediately stop further cleaning. The continual oozing of blood can be controlled by holding in place for a few minutes a pad soaked in cold water. Dab the wound dry with clean pieces of gauze, lint or paper towels.
To keep the wound clean and prevent it from being interfered with, apply a pad gauze or lint, securing it in place either with a crepe bandage or adhesive tape. If adhesive tape is used, cut a piece long enough to overlap itself when in place.
Q: Does it matter at what time my cat has his medicine?
Answer: The instruction from your vet might be indicate precisely when a particular medicine should be administered; for example, before or after meals. Many drugs which influence the digestion or absorption of food need to be given just before meals. Of the remaining drugs, most will be absorbed faster and more completely if they are not given at the same time as food.
When the instructions state that the medicine should be given certain number of times of a day, the intention is for the times of administration to be as equally spaced as possible. In other words, twice a day means every twelve hours, and three times a day every eight hours, insofar as this is feasible. Obviously it is not usually necessary to get up in the middle of the night to given medicine, and times of administration may have to be fitted around working hours, but as far as possible then even spacing of doses should be practiced.
When the instructions state that the medicine should be given certain number of times of a day, the intention is for the times of administration to be as equally spaced as possible. In other words, twice a day means every twelve hours, and three times a day every eight hours, insofar as this is feasible. Obviously it is not usually necessary to get up in the middle of the night to given medicine, and times of administration may have to be fitted around working hours, but as far as possible then even spacing of doses should be practiced.
Q: How can I give my cat liquid medicine?
Answer: Giving a liquid medicine in usually more difficult then giving a tablet. Have the cat restrained, laying or sitting on a table or a worktop, by another family member or friend. Your helper should stand behind the cat and hold its front leg down to prevent scratching. Or the cat can be rolled up in a towel with only the head sticking out; then it can be passed down onto the table top.
If your cat is reasonably good-tempered, hold its head so that the nose point slightly upwards. If he is more difficult to handle it will be necessary to grasp his scruff firmly, and then direct his nose upward. If you are right handed carry out this restraint with your left hand, and vice versa.
Have the medicine already measure out into a small plastic bottle, or a vial of the type used for dispensing liquids or tablets, or contained in a 5 ml. Disposable plastic syringe. A syringe is preferable because it is much easier to handle and avoids any spilling of the medicine; if a spoon knocked or you cannot pour it easily some of the liquid gets spilled. If a spoon has to be used, remember some useful tips: half-fill two spoons rather then try to manipulate one which is completely full (or else pour a teaspoonful of liquid into dessertspoon); put a small book, or similar object, under of the tip of the handle to keep the top of the bowl horizontal this will avoid spilling and facilitate picking the spoon up.
Place the end of the vial, syringe or spoon between the lips at the side of the mouth and let the liquid trickle out. Do it slowly so that the cat is able to swallow without coughing or spluttering. If there is any splitting allow pause for the cat to put his head down to recover before administering more.
A plastic eye dropper can be substituted for the syringe, but a glass eye dropper is best avoided is case it gets chewed on and splinters.
The aim is not necessarily to place the dosing implement between the teeth, though this can be done with a syringe or eye dropper and will greatly speed up administration. Otherwise let the liquid slowly trickle between the teeth. Certainly do not attempt to open the jaws and place a spoon or bottle between them, either at the side of mouth or at the front, because this invariably provokes a struggle, resulting in only partially successful dosing and great distress to all parties.
Afterwards it is often valuable to make a fuss of your cat, or to give him some favourite titbit, to reassure him that you are not trying to be unkind.
If your cat is reasonably good-tempered, hold its head so that the nose point slightly upwards. If he is more difficult to handle it will be necessary to grasp his scruff firmly, and then direct his nose upward. If you are right handed carry out this restraint with your left hand, and vice versa.
Have the medicine already measure out into a small plastic bottle, or a vial of the type used for dispensing liquids or tablets, or contained in a 5 ml. Disposable plastic syringe. A syringe is preferable because it is much easier to handle and avoids any spilling of the medicine; if a spoon knocked or you cannot pour it easily some of the liquid gets spilled. If a spoon has to be used, remember some useful tips: half-fill two spoons rather then try to manipulate one which is completely full (or else pour a teaspoonful of liquid into dessertspoon); put a small book, or similar object, under of the tip of the handle to keep the top of the bowl horizontal this will avoid spilling and facilitate picking the spoon up.
Place the end of the vial, syringe or spoon between the lips at the side of the mouth and let the liquid trickle out. Do it slowly so that the cat is able to swallow without coughing or spluttering. If there is any splitting allow pause for the cat to put his head down to recover before administering more.
A plastic eye dropper can be substituted for the syringe, but a glass eye dropper is best avoided is case it gets chewed on and splinters.
The aim is not necessarily to place the dosing implement between the teeth, though this can be done with a syringe or eye dropper and will greatly speed up administration. Otherwise let the liquid slowly trickle between the teeth. Certainly do not attempt to open the jaws and place a spoon or bottle between them, either at the side of mouth or at the front, because this invariably provokes a struggle, resulting in only partially successful dosing and great distress to all parties.
Afterwards it is often valuable to make a fuss of your cat, or to give him some favourite titbit, to reassure him that you are not trying to be unkind.
Q: I dread having to give my cat a tablet as he struggles so much and then just spits it out under the table. Is there a proper way to give him a tabl
Answer: Some cats may accept the tablet or capsule sealed in a titbit of minced meat or fresh, especially if they are hungry. This is unusual, but worth trying first. Simply placing the tablet in the dish or food usually means that the food gets eaten and the tablet left! Crushing a tablet and mixing the powder in with the food is often unsuccessful (especially if the tablet tastes unpleasant) though disguising the flavour with strong-smelling substance, such as fish oil or yeast extract, may work. Some people find a tablet crushed in evaporated milk occasionally works. Again you could try it but always prepared the disguised tablet out of the cat’s sight!
If your vet tells you not to crush or break a tablet before giving it, do follow this advice. Certain tablet (for example, some worming and antibacterial tablets) contain very bitter drug surrounded by an inter coating. If this bitter material contacts the inside of the mouth, the cat will salivate profusely and breathe rapidly so that its mouth becomes filled with froth, causing great distress. (Some degree of extra salvation normally occurs when dosing with tablets, but not as marked as this.)
In most cases, the tablet has to be placed at the back of the mouth before the cat will swallow it, particularly where repeated dosing is required. If the cat is reasonably good-tempered, you can possibly do this single-handed, although someone else’s assistance in holding the cat is often useful. Where the cat is difficult to handle, someone is assistance is essential. First place the animal on a table or worktop counter about three feet high and where there is a good source of light.
Method 1: This is usually the most effective. If you are right-handed, grasp the cat’s scruff (the loose skin at the back of the neck) generally but firmly in your left hand and hold the tablet or capsule between the thumb and index finger of your right hand. If you are left-handed, reverse these instructions. Hold the animal so that it is lying or sitting upright. Your assistant should prevent the animal from scratching by handling its front legs down on the table. Alternatively, the cat can be firmly wrapped in a towel with only its head protruding; then held down on the table. Have a pencil or ballpoint pen within reach.
Rotate the hand which is grasping the scruff so that the animal’s nose points upwards, while at the same time pressing downwards to prevent the cat rising. Usually the mouth will open; if necessary the second finger of the hand holding the tablet can push the downwards slightly on the lower front teeth. Now place the tablet as far back into the mouth as possible.
Now take up the pencil or pen immediately, and with its flat end quickly, but gentle, push the tablet over the back of the tongue, i.e. into the throat.
Relax the grip on the scruff, close the cat’s mouth quickly and stroke its throat. Wait for it to gulp and lick its nose, which indicates that the tablet has been swallowed. Don’t let the cat put its nose down before swallowing he’ll simply spit the tablet out again.
There are other ways to place the tablet right at the back of the throat; on which is very simple to hold the tablet in a pair of artery forceps. This is specialized instrument, but easily ordered from a pharmacist, and it renders tablet administration as easy as it ever could be. Another is to use a plastic ‘pill giver’, sold in pet shops, which will both hold and inject the tablet.
Method 2 Some people prefer this method. Again your helper restrains the cat so that is a lying or sitting upright. You can then open the cat’s mouth by putting on hand over the cat’s head, placing your index finger and thumb will behind the large canine teeth on either side, and then pushing down on the lower teeth with the index finger and thumb. Introduce the tablet into the throat with the other hand, as described in Method 1. Close the jaws quickly afterwards and stroke the throat.
Whichever method is adopted the aim is to be firm, quick and efficient. With successive attempts the animal will become more restless and the job more difficult, so try to get it right first time. Watch the cat afterwards to check that the tablet isn’t spat out; if it has been, the procedure will need to be repeated. (Occasionally the owners move the furniture to find a dozen antibiotic tablets behind the settee. Before then, they had thought their technique was flawless.)
Giving a tablet is much is much simpler the giving a capsule. The outer gelatin shell of the capsule becomes sticky on contact with moisture so usually, unless its put down the throat at the first attempt, the capsule will stick to your fingers or to the inside of the cat’s mouth, and successive attempts will become progressively more difficult.
Occasionally owners attempts to put powdered drugs directly into their cat’s mouth. This is almost Impossible to do successfully and shouldn’t be attempted. Cats usually produce a lot of salvia being dosed by mouth, and if you do succeed in getting any powder into the mouth, most of it will be washed out again in the flow of salvia.
If your vet tells you not to crush or break a tablet before giving it, do follow this advice. Certain tablet (for example, some worming and antibacterial tablets) contain very bitter drug surrounded by an inter coating. If this bitter material contacts the inside of the mouth, the cat will salivate profusely and breathe rapidly so that its mouth becomes filled with froth, causing great distress. (Some degree of extra salvation normally occurs when dosing with tablets, but not as marked as this.)
In most cases, the tablet has to be placed at the back of the mouth before the cat will swallow it, particularly where repeated dosing is required. If the cat is reasonably good-tempered, you can possibly do this single-handed, although someone else’s assistance in holding the cat is often useful. Where the cat is difficult to handle, someone is assistance is essential. First place the animal on a table or worktop counter about three feet high and where there is a good source of light.
Method 1: This is usually the most effective. If you are right-handed, grasp the cat’s scruff (the loose skin at the back of the neck) generally but firmly in your left hand and hold the tablet or capsule between the thumb and index finger of your right hand. If you are left-handed, reverse these instructions. Hold the animal so that it is lying or sitting upright. Your assistant should prevent the animal from scratching by handling its front legs down on the table. Alternatively, the cat can be firmly wrapped in a towel with only its head protruding; then held down on the table. Have a pencil or ballpoint pen within reach.
Rotate the hand which is grasping the scruff so that the animal’s nose points upwards, while at the same time pressing downwards to prevent the cat rising. Usually the mouth will open; if necessary the second finger of the hand holding the tablet can push the downwards slightly on the lower front teeth. Now place the tablet as far back into the mouth as possible.
Now take up the pencil or pen immediately, and with its flat end quickly, but gentle, push the tablet over the back of the tongue, i.e. into the throat.
Relax the grip on the scruff, close the cat’s mouth quickly and stroke its throat. Wait for it to gulp and lick its nose, which indicates that the tablet has been swallowed. Don’t let the cat put its nose down before swallowing he’ll simply spit the tablet out again.
There are other ways to place the tablet right at the back of the throat; on which is very simple to hold the tablet in a pair of artery forceps. This is specialized instrument, but easily ordered from a pharmacist, and it renders tablet administration as easy as it ever could be. Another is to use a plastic ‘pill giver’, sold in pet shops, which will both hold and inject the tablet.
Method 2 Some people prefer this method. Again your helper restrains the cat so that is a lying or sitting upright. You can then open the cat’s mouth by putting on hand over the cat’s head, placing your index finger and thumb will behind the large canine teeth on either side, and then pushing down on the lower teeth with the index finger and thumb. Introduce the tablet into the throat with the other hand, as described in Method 1. Close the jaws quickly afterwards and stroke the throat.
Whichever method is adopted the aim is to be firm, quick and efficient. With successive attempts the animal will become more restless and the job more difficult, so try to get it right first time. Watch the cat afterwards to check that the tablet isn’t spat out; if it has been, the procedure will need to be repeated. (Occasionally the owners move the furniture to find a dozen antibiotic tablets behind the settee. Before then, they had thought their technique was flawless.)
Giving a tablet is much is much simpler the giving a capsule. The outer gelatin shell of the capsule becomes sticky on contact with moisture so usually, unless its put down the throat at the first attempt, the capsule will stick to your fingers or to the inside of the cat’s mouth, and successive attempts will become progressively more difficult.
Occasionally owners attempts to put powdered drugs directly into their cat’s mouth. This is almost Impossible to do successfully and shouldn’t be attempted. Cats usually produce a lot of salvia being dosed by mouth, and if you do succeed in getting any powder into the mouth, most of it will be washed out again in the flow of salvia.
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