Answer: Not as general rule. Sedatives are best reserved for those cats that become distressed by travelling, and even then only when they have to undertake a long journey. Most cats will accept travelling by car or public transport with only the occasional vocal complaint about the bumps and jolts along the way. Sedatives should be reserved for those cats who are known to become extremely anxious and excited when traveling and for those who suffer from true travel sickness.
Travel sickness is a response to the motion of the moving vehicle (cars, busses, planes, boats) which continually stimulates the organs of balance in the animal’s inner ears and which in turn stimulates the brain i.e. the part if it is known as the vomiting centre. Usually the cat initially very quiet, and then may salivate, retch and even vomit. Fortunately, recovery takes only a few minutes after the movement cases.
The anxious cat becomes very excited, shows dilated pupils and also salivates. Excessive salivation and painting are in fact features of both extreme anxiety and true travel sickness.
Sedatives given by mouth to control nervousness or motion sickness being to exert their maximum effect within one or two hours. When injected, they are effective within twenty to thirty minutes, though faster if given intravenously. There effect lasts for around six hours, but some degree of sedation, with a lower body temperature and reduced ability to response top stimuli, lasts for at lasts twenty four hours. Obviously, it would be preferable for the cat to endure a half-hour journey then a complete day’s hangover, unless there is some very good reason.
To minimize the possibility of excitement, a cat can be trained beforehand to accept travail in a car. It is firstly fed tidbits in the car, then spends short periods in a travelling baskets in the motionless car, and eventually it is taken for short drives.
To minimize the occurrence of travel sickness, don’t give any food to the cat for six to eight hours before the journey, and no liquid for one to two hours beforehand. Make sure that the basket is well ventilated and that the ventilation holes are not blocked by surrounding cases, bags, or outdoor clothes, especially when travelling boy car. As general rule, it is inadvisable to give food or drink on a journey of less then twelve hours.
Showing posts with label Handling a Cat. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Handling a Cat. Show all posts
Q: Is one type of cat basket better then another?
Answer: There are many types of travelling container which are suitable for transporting cats. The main requirements are that they should provide adequate ventilation, be comfortable and be secure. There are two basic designs of the traditional wickerwork cat basket: one is rectangular box with a hinged lid, the other has a curved ‘roof’ and a wire mesh door at one end which allows the cat to see out. Some large baskets, with the lid or door left open, can even double as the cat’s normal bed, which makes it is easier to persuade the animal inside for the journey. However, wickerwork is difficult to clean adequately and the hinges fastening on some baskets are so loose that a determine cat could wriggle though the gap around the lid or door and escape. If you have such a loose-fitting door on your basket, it is advisable to die the door and basket together at a number of points which pieces of string. Some cats even learn to put a paw through the wire mesh door and dislodge the wire pin which, on some models, holds the door closed; leather straps the make a more secure fastening.
Another type of container is constructed of strong plastic covered wire mesh, which also allows the cats to see out and to be seen. Both this type and the wickerwork baskets are very droughty so, if carrying them outdoors in windy weather, the walls should be lined with a stiff paper beforehand. Rigid fiberglass and plastic containers are easy to clean and some have transparent roofs are said which allow the cat to view the outdoor. Whether this desirable is open to discussion; some owners believe that their cats feel more secure inside a totally enclosed container.
Plastic carrying bags with a transparent end panel and ventilation holes, and fastened by a zip, are much cheaper, though rather carped for long journeys. And, of course, a very cheap, though impermanent, carrying container is a cardboard cat carrier, usually obtainable from your vet or from a animal welfare society. This can be re-folder flat for storage and may have a water replant lining but will not survive a good soaking in the rain. Some cats will also bite or claw the cardboard into shreds, especially if you misguidedly enlarge the ventilation holes beforehand. These carriers are therefore not recommended for long journeys.
In an emergency you can use a strong cardboard box with secure lid and some ventilation holes punched in the sides, the whole box securely tied both front and back and side to side with string which passes all the way around. Strong shopping bags with zips are fine for carrying an unconscious cat, but conscious animals are often able to work a paw, or their head, through the small gap which has to be left for the ventilation and to force the zip back sufficiently to escape.
Inside a cat basket a piece of towel or other soft material even a wad of newspaper) can be used bedding, but not a large cushion which will take up most of the space. Newspaper, of course, has the advantage that when its soiled, and this may happen with fear or on a long journey, it can simply be thrown away or burned. In very cold weather wrapped, warm water-bottle could be provide.
Normally food or water should not be placed inside the container; it will usually be spilled and if the cat eats during journeys of more then twelve hours, when the animal contained in the special box or crate. For air travel these container are made of plywood or fiberglass for lightness. For cats they need to have minimum dimensions of 26 inches by 18 inches, and to be 18 inches high (66cm* 46cm* 46cm). They must have a solid, impervious floor and adequate ventilation holes, food and water containers and a toilet tray for unaccompanied travel. Animal baskets or carets should always be stowed away from particularly noisy areas, and whenever possible pregnant cats should not be transported.
At the end of journey the carrying container should be opened slowly, especially if it is of the type which does not permit you to see the cat from outside. Do this preferably in a closed room; in a strange environment, and after the excitement of the journey, some cats will leap out and rush away to hide. On the other hand, some cats may be very reluctant to leave the comparative safety of the basket and will need plenty of reassurance as they are lifted out.
Another type of container is constructed of strong plastic covered wire mesh, which also allows the cats to see out and to be seen. Both this type and the wickerwork baskets are very droughty so, if carrying them outdoors in windy weather, the walls should be lined with a stiff paper beforehand. Rigid fiberglass and plastic containers are easy to clean and some have transparent roofs are said which allow the cat to view the outdoor. Whether this desirable is open to discussion; some owners believe that their cats feel more secure inside a totally enclosed container.
Plastic carrying bags with a transparent end panel and ventilation holes, and fastened by a zip, are much cheaper, though rather carped for long journeys. And, of course, a very cheap, though impermanent, carrying container is a cardboard cat carrier, usually obtainable from your vet or from a animal welfare society. This can be re-folder flat for storage and may have a water replant lining but will not survive a good soaking in the rain. Some cats will also bite or claw the cardboard into shreds, especially if you misguidedly enlarge the ventilation holes beforehand. These carriers are therefore not recommended for long journeys.
In an emergency you can use a strong cardboard box with secure lid and some ventilation holes punched in the sides, the whole box securely tied both front and back and side to side with string which passes all the way around. Strong shopping bags with zips are fine for carrying an unconscious cat, but conscious animals are often able to work a paw, or their head, through the small gap which has to be left for the ventilation and to force the zip back sufficiently to escape.
Inside a cat basket a piece of towel or other soft material even a wad of newspaper) can be used bedding, but not a large cushion which will take up most of the space. Newspaper, of course, has the advantage that when its soiled, and this may happen with fear or on a long journey, it can simply be thrown away or burned. In very cold weather wrapped, warm water-bottle could be provide.
Normally food or water should not be placed inside the container; it will usually be spilled and if the cat eats during journeys of more then twelve hours, when the animal contained in the special box or crate. For air travel these container are made of plywood or fiberglass for lightness. For cats they need to have minimum dimensions of 26 inches by 18 inches, and to be 18 inches high (66cm* 46cm* 46cm). They must have a solid, impervious floor and adequate ventilation holes, food and water containers and a toilet tray for unaccompanied travel. Animal baskets or carets should always be stowed away from particularly noisy areas, and whenever possible pregnant cats should not be transported.
At the end of journey the carrying container should be opened slowly, especially if it is of the type which does not permit you to see the cat from outside. Do this preferably in a closed room; in a strange environment, and after the excitement of the journey, some cats will leap out and rush away to hide. On the other hand, some cats may be very reluctant to leave the comparative safety of the basket and will need plenty of reassurance as they are lifted out.
Q: Is it best to put mu cat in a basket even when travelling by car?
Answer: Yes, any cat being transported should be in the securely-closed container, whatever the means of transport. Cats which are allowed to travel loose in a car may suffer impact injures if the car has no swerve or stop suddenly. They can also cause accidents by distracting the driver’s attention (e.g. by climbing onto the shoulder) or by getting under the driver’s feet so that he cannot operate the break pedal. And a cat that decides to make a dish for it through an open window, or as soon is open, is often lost for even in unfamiliar terrain.
Q: Should a cat be handled after an operation?
Answer: Any operation wound will obviously hurt if the cat is carelessly handled within a weak or so of surgery. Even if the wound is not touched directly, picking the car up awkwardly. e.g. dangling from its front legs, will produce tension at the operation site and consequent pain. So that after an operation it would be better not to handle the cat unless it is really necessary, and then only to do so very cautiously, taking care not to pull, or put pressure on, the operation wound. (of course, that is not to say that cat itself might not be attempting the most difficult jumps and twists only a day or so after surgery.) Later, when healing is quite complete (three to four week after the operation) the cat can be handled normally again.
Q: Should I get a collar, lead or harness for my cat?
Answer: Collar and harnesses can provide some means of identification. This can take the from of a transparent name panel on a ‘flea collar’ or an engraved identity disk (or small tube containing your name and address on paper) attached the cat’s leather collar or harness. Unfortunately, if a collar gets hooked on a branch as the cat climbs a tree, the animal can be left dangling from it and is gradually strangled. For this reason, only cat collars with an elastic panel in them should be used, the intention being that they will scratch sufficiently for the cat to continue breathing and to get its head free. Unfortunately, in struggling, the cat may turn round and round and use up the slack in the collar, so that eventually it is still asphyxiated. Some quick-release fastening, e.g. of Velcro, would clearly be the advantage to prevent this type of mishap.
An adjustable harness, securely fitted, is safer then a collar, although again it can get caught up and level the cat scratched. Certainly, a harness is better then a collar when training a cat to walk on a lead (leash), If walking on a lead is to be taught, the lead should initially be long enough to permit the cat some freedom to move around (six to seven feet), but as it become use to walking nearby (ideally alongside) this can be shortened. A light leather lead, or one of canvas or of cord, is suitable. Most pet shop leads are about four to five feet long. The clip at the end of the lead should preferably be of the bolt type rather then the spring clip type which sometimes becomes firmly fastened to an area of skin and can only be removed by being sawn apart. Chain leads and collars, e.g. ‘choke’ chains (cheek chains), are too heavy to be worn by cats.
An adjustable harness, securely fitted, is safer then a collar, although again it can get caught up and level the cat scratched. Certainly, a harness is better then a collar when training a cat to walk on a lead (leash), If walking on a lead is to be taught, the lead should initially be long enough to permit the cat some freedom to move around (six to seven feet), but as it become use to walking nearby (ideally alongside) this can be shortened. A light leather lead, or one of canvas or of cord, is suitable. Most pet shop leads are about four to five feet long. The clip at the end of the lead should preferably be of the bolt type rather then the spring clip type which sometimes becomes firmly fastened to an area of skin and can only be removed by being sawn apart. Chain leads and collars, e.g. ‘choke’ chains (cheek chains), are too heavy to be worn by cats.
Q: What is the best way of handling a cat after a road accident?
Answer: Following its involvement in the road accident a cat, if still conscious, will be disturbed and frightened and will often run away blindly in an attempt to escape from the scene. The animal does not understand what has happened to it and reverts to defensive behavior. Even when approached by its owner, it may prove aggressive and resent handling.
The approach to such a cat should be clam, quiet and yet purposeful. Leather glove can provide some protection against scratches, but they should be sufficiently flexible not to prevent you may from making firm grasping movements. A coat, or other garment which covers your arms down to the wrist, will prevent them being badly scratched. There is however, no effective way to muzzle a cat.
It is useful to have the help of two or three sensible people, but noisy and hysterical onlookers should be asked to leave. Approach the animal slowly, making sure that it can hear or see you coming to prevent to flying into sudden panic. Be very cautious if the animal is on a wall or projection above ground level, or it is cornered, because it may then try to attack. By talking to the animal in a quiet reassuring voice, you may be able to get close enough to stroke it and very carefully pick it up. If you attempt this, is the best to make a few preliminary stroking movement and then to take a firm grasp of the cat’s scruff and to lift it into some suitable carrying container placed nearby. Be prepared for the animal to struggle, and don’t let go unless you absolutely have to because second attempts are usually much less successful. Watch the animal the time.
If find you are unable to gain the animal’s confidence sufficiently to allow to do this another technique to pick up an aggressive cat is to drop an old coat or blanket over the animal, to quickly take all the edges underneath the cat, and then to left the whole bundle and quickly place it inside your container. If all else fails, you will need to telephone for the professional assistance, e.g. from an animal welfare society, veterinary surgeon, police, or in some countries, a professional dog and cat catcher. Devices specially developed for catching stray animals will probably have to be used.
Of course, it is the less seriously injured cat, and sometimes the totally uninjured but very frightened cat, that present the greatest problem. The seriously injured animal is unlikely to be aware of or to care much about your presence,; indeed it may be unconscious.
Some of the things not to do in this situation include chasing the cat, trying to tempt it with food or drink ( after an accident eating and drinking is very far from its mind), shouting or making sudden movements, and taking hold of the animal by an obviously injured part. When the injured animal is within a secure container it should, as soon as possible, receive veterinary attention.
The approach to such a cat should be clam, quiet and yet purposeful. Leather glove can provide some protection against scratches, but they should be sufficiently flexible not to prevent you may from making firm grasping movements. A coat, or other garment which covers your arms down to the wrist, will prevent them being badly scratched. There is however, no effective way to muzzle a cat.
It is useful to have the help of two or three sensible people, but noisy and hysterical onlookers should be asked to leave. Approach the animal slowly, making sure that it can hear or see you coming to prevent to flying into sudden panic. Be very cautious if the animal is on a wall or projection above ground level, or it is cornered, because it may then try to attack. By talking to the animal in a quiet reassuring voice, you may be able to get close enough to stroke it and very carefully pick it up. If you attempt this, is the best to make a few preliminary stroking movement and then to take a firm grasp of the cat’s scruff and to lift it into some suitable carrying container placed nearby. Be prepared for the animal to struggle, and don’t let go unless you absolutely have to because second attempts are usually much less successful. Watch the animal the time.
If find you are unable to gain the animal’s confidence sufficiently to allow to do this another technique to pick up an aggressive cat is to drop an old coat or blanket over the animal, to quickly take all the edges underneath the cat, and then to left the whole bundle and quickly place it inside your container. If all else fails, you will need to telephone for the professional assistance, e.g. from an animal welfare society, veterinary surgeon, police, or in some countries, a professional dog and cat catcher. Devices specially developed for catching stray animals will probably have to be used.
Of course, it is the less seriously injured cat, and sometimes the totally uninjured but very frightened cat, that present the greatest problem. The seriously injured animal is unlikely to be aware of or to care much about your presence,; indeed it may be unconscious.
Some of the things not to do in this situation include chasing the cat, trying to tempt it with food or drink ( after an accident eating and drinking is very far from its mind), shouting or making sudden movements, and taking hold of the animal by an obviously injured part. When the injured animal is within a secure container it should, as soon as possible, receive veterinary attention.
Q: You have suggested that I should weigh my cat regularly. What's the best way to do this?
Answer: In the early stages of the kitten hood the kitchen scales may be used, provided that the scale pain is well washed afterwards. It should be protected with a polythene beg and a couple of paper towels in case of accidents; these won't alter the reading significantly. Later, the bathroom scales can be even a cardboard box to prevent him from repeatedly jumping off. Usually, the cat won't sit still long enough for you to be able to read the dial accurately. Weigh this container both with and without the animal and then find the cat’s weight by difference. Alternatively, you could suspend a cat basket from a spring balance, again to find the cat’s weight by difference. Or weigh yourself holding the cat again without it.
Use the same scales each time if possible to that any error in the weightings will be consistent, allowing a meaningful compression.
In all cases, if the needle on the dial of the scales fails to give a constant reading because of the animal’s movements, note the upper and lower limits of the swing of the needle and use the point midway between them as the cat’s true weight.
Use the same scales each time if possible to that any error in the weightings will be consistent, allowing a meaningful compression.
In all cases, if the needle on the dial of the scales fails to give a constant reading because of the animal’s movements, note the upper and lower limits of the swing of the needle and use the point midway between them as the cat’s true weight.
Q: Should I pick up kittens by the scruff of the neck?
Answer: A mother cat carrier her young during the first weeks of life (principally the first three weeks) after picking them up by the scruff of the neck with her teeth. At this early age they are incapable of walking any distance unaided. The mother uses this method to retrieve kittens that have fallen out of the ‘nest’ (Incidentally, she is attracted to such ‘lost’ kittens not by the sight of them, but by their cries.)
If the site of the ‘nest’ is changed, the mother will carry each kitten in turn from the old nest to the new in this way and, because cats cannot count, she will also return to the old nest after all the kittens have been moved to search for any that have been ‘forgotten’. (Wild cats commonly change their quarters regularly to make if difficult for predators to find them.) Later, the mother will carry the kittens to somewhere outside the nest to begin toilet training.
After these first few weeks of the life, packing up a cat solely by its scruff put an undue strain on the neck muscles. It is better then to pickup a kitten in a similar way to an adult cat, i.e. to take the weight of the kitten on the upturned palm of one hand and to use the fingers of the other to hold the scruff and limit the amount of wriggling.
Kittens benefit from plenty of handling from an early age, certainly from around weaning (six to eight week's old) which encourages socialization with humans. However, very young children (babies and toddlers) should not be allowed alone with kittens and cats as they tend to make raped grabbing movements. Older children should be in a sitting position before being allowed to handle a kitten. As the kitten being to wriggle or protrude its, claws, children will invariably let go and drop it.
If the site of the ‘nest’ is changed, the mother will carry each kitten in turn from the old nest to the new in this way and, because cats cannot count, she will also return to the old nest after all the kittens have been moved to search for any that have been ‘forgotten’. (Wild cats commonly change their quarters regularly to make if difficult for predators to find them.) Later, the mother will carry the kittens to somewhere outside the nest to begin toilet training.
After these first few weeks of the life, packing up a cat solely by its scruff put an undue strain on the neck muscles. It is better then to pickup a kitten in a similar way to an adult cat, i.e. to take the weight of the kitten on the upturned palm of one hand and to use the fingers of the other to hold the scruff and limit the amount of wriggling.
Kittens benefit from plenty of handling from an early age, certainly from around weaning (six to eight week's old) which encourages socialization with humans. However, very young children (babies and toddlers) should not be allowed alone with kittens and cats as they tend to make raped grabbing movements. Older children should be in a sitting position before being allowed to handle a kitten. As the kitten being to wriggle or protrude its, claws, children will invariably let go and drop it.
Q: How should I carry pregnant cat?
Answer: Clearly, it is important to avoid putting pressure on the developing fetuses in the abdomen and yet to provide adequate support for the near end, which is heavier then usual. Certainly, the cat should not be lifted with a hand beneath its abdomen. The some method as illustrate for a normal cat would be satisfactory.
Some breeders prefer to carry pregnant females with their body in a more vertical plane; one hand handling the front legs up and the other supporting the weight of the hind quarters, so that the cat is in a ‘sitting up’ position.
Some breeders prefer to carry pregnant females with their body in a more vertical plane; one hand handling the front legs up and the other supporting the weight of the hind quarters, so that the cat is in a ‘sitting up’ position.
Q: What is the best way to pick up and put down a cat?
Answer: A basic fact when handling almost all animals (and people!) is to be firm, yet gentle, and to have a confident approach. This confidence certainly communicates itself to screech, if it is feel secure. If it feels insecure it will use its claws to obtain a firmer foothold. If the cat is to be picked up, especially if it is a stranger to you, don’t make a sudden grab at it. It will defend itself instinctively from that it believes is an attack, and you may get scratched or bitten. Rather, approach it quietly, talking to it and stroking it.
A cat should always be raises and lowered gently, firmly supported from underneath and never dropped from a height. Although it usually lands safely, the animal will be unwilling to repeat the experience and will come to resent handling. The cat will fined it uncomfortable, even painful, if too much strain is put on one part of the body when being picked up and carried. Therefore don’t (and don’t let children) pick the cat up solely by the stuff, or by the front legs (or hind legs) alone, or using one or both hands around the abdomen (i.e. soft ‘middle’ of the cat behind the chest). Children in particular tend to squeeze a cat around its middle.
In an emergency it may be necessary to left a rather wild cat by the scurf of the nick in order to secure it but this is a special situation and only occur occasionally.
A cat should always be raises and lowered gently, firmly supported from underneath and never dropped from a height. Although it usually lands safely, the animal will be unwilling to repeat the experience and will come to resent handling. The cat will fined it uncomfortable, even painful, if too much strain is put on one part of the body when being picked up and carried. Therefore don’t (and don’t let children) pick the cat up solely by the stuff, or by the front legs (or hind legs) alone, or using one or both hands around the abdomen (i.e. soft ‘middle’ of the cat behind the chest). Children in particular tend to squeeze a cat around its middle.
In an emergency it may be necessary to left a rather wild cat by the scurf of the nick in order to secure it but this is a special situation and only occur occasionally.
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