Answer: A small amount of tried exudates (‘matter’) often accumulates at the inner corner of the eye and should be wiped away with a piece of moistened cotton wool; never use it dry because this will stick to the eye surface.
In long-haired breeds of cats, it is common to get an accumulation of brownish matter at the inner corner of the eyes and permanent runs of tears down the face. This matter should be bathed away with lukewarm water or boric acid solution (two 5 ml teaspoonfuls of crystals in half a tumbler of warm water), and your vet consulted if it persists.
Showing posts with label Grooming Your Cat. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Grooming Your Cat. Show all posts
Q: I red somewhere that cat owners sometimes have their cats ‘de-clawed:’ Is this operation advisable if the animal is destructive?
Answer: Veterinary removal of the claws (onychectomy) is a painful mutilation which cannot be recommended under any circumstances. Cats with their nails removed are deprived of an important defense mechanism and have difficulty in climbing. Many continue to behave as if they were still able to sharpen their claws, and some undergo a profound personality change following surgery. The operation is very seldom performed in Great Britain, though more often, I am sorry to say, in North America. Any cat which has been de-clawed is automatically disqualified from cat shows under the rules which are in force in most countries. The operation is often performed at three to four months’ old but if not properly performed one or more claws can grow back. If the only way you can tolerate a cat is after this dreadful mutilation, then you should not keep one at all.
Q: Should I ever clip my cat’s claws?
Answer: Clipping cat’s claws is usually necessary only if the claws have grown too long. This won’t happen in cat that get plenty of exercise, stalking around the neighborhood and climbing trees, because their claws are continually being worn down. In cats which are unwilling or unable to exercise sufficiently, due to old age, illness or simply because they are kept indoors most of the time, the claw can grow for too long and being to catch on carpets and soft furnishings. A cat may even chew at these long nails to remove the frayed outer cuticle and expose a new claw underneath.
In old cats, the dewclaws on the inside of the front legs just above the paws never receive any wear and may grow so much that they turn a complete circle and being to enter the skin again
It is good idea to check the length of the claws periodically. Bear in mind that those of the hind feet are naturally shorter then those at the front. If the claws are unpigmented (i.e. transparent), the ping quick which contains the blood vessels can be seen inside and normally reaches almost to the tip of the nail. If the nail extends beyond the quick, it is too long and either yourself or your veterinary surgeon can clip away the surplus, taking care not to cut into the quick which will cause bleeding. If the claw is pigmented (i.e. black), the quick cannot be seen and where to cut has to be judged from experience. Remember that there is a slight increase in the length of the quick the claw grow longer, so that to cut back a very long claw to a ‘normal’ length may damage the quick; it is batter to leave the nail a bit longer then usual and to trim it again a fortnight later.
The cat should be restrained on a table top by a helper and the claw of each foot trained in turn. Place the index finger of one hand on the pad below and behind the claw, and the thumb on the skin above the claw and by exerting gentle pressure between them the nail will be retracted and held firmly for clipping. Use a large pair of nail clippers with spring handles, not the folding type used for cutting finger nails. The design with two separate blades is often easier to position then the guillotined type. Never use scissor which will spilt and splinter the nail. Afterwards, ant rough edges can be smoothed with a nail file or on emery board.
Make a clean cut straight cross the nail, not one which slants. If by any chance some slight bleeding point; you could also apply small piece of cotton wool or some inert powder, e.g. talcum powder or flour. Pushing the nail into a bar of soap will often control slight bleeding too. If there is more severe bleeding pressure pad should be applied and veterinary attention obtained.
The only other reason for clipping a claw is if it has been fractured and the broken end is dangling from the rest of the nail. Ideally, this part should be clipped off completely and any hemorrhage controlled as before.
Clipping the claws merely to blunt them and so prevent the cat from damaging the furniture is often futile. The cat will usually sharpen them again at the first opportunity.
In old cats, the dewclaws on the inside of the front legs just above the paws never receive any wear and may grow so much that they turn a complete circle and being to enter the skin again
It is good idea to check the length of the claws periodically. Bear in mind that those of the hind feet are naturally shorter then those at the front. If the claws are unpigmented (i.e. transparent), the ping quick which contains the blood vessels can be seen inside and normally reaches almost to the tip of the nail. If the nail extends beyond the quick, it is too long and either yourself or your veterinary surgeon can clip away the surplus, taking care not to cut into the quick which will cause bleeding. If the claw is pigmented (i.e. black), the quick cannot be seen and where to cut has to be judged from experience. Remember that there is a slight increase in the length of the quick the claw grow longer, so that to cut back a very long claw to a ‘normal’ length may damage the quick; it is batter to leave the nail a bit longer then usual and to trim it again a fortnight later.
The cat should be restrained on a table top by a helper and the claw of each foot trained in turn. Place the index finger of one hand on the pad below and behind the claw, and the thumb on the skin above the claw and by exerting gentle pressure between them the nail will be retracted and held firmly for clipping. Use a large pair of nail clippers with spring handles, not the folding type used for cutting finger nails. The design with two separate blades is often easier to position then the guillotined type. Never use scissor which will spilt and splinter the nail. Afterwards, ant rough edges can be smoothed with a nail file or on emery board.
Make a clean cut straight cross the nail, not one which slants. If by any chance some slight bleeding point; you could also apply small piece of cotton wool or some inert powder, e.g. talcum powder or flour. Pushing the nail into a bar of soap will often control slight bleeding too. If there is more severe bleeding pressure pad should be applied and veterinary attention obtained.
The only other reason for clipping a claw is if it has been fractured and the broken end is dangling from the rest of the nail. Ideally, this part should be clipped off completely and any hemorrhage controlled as before.
Clipping the claws merely to blunt them and so prevent the cat from damaging the furniture is often futile. The cat will usually sharpen them again at the first opportunity.
Q: How can I clean my cat’s ears?
Answer: Though not often needed, there are three main reasons for cleaning a cat’s ears: to remove an accumulation of natural wax, [particularly if the cat is not to be shown (this is especially common in Rex cats); so remove dust or water from the ear; and as part of the treatment for an ear condition, usually ear mite infection.
It is good idea to check the inside of a cat’s ears during grooming, or if the cat is regularly seen to shaking, rubbing or scratching its ears. Cat’s ears are seldom acutely inflamed but if they are the canal below the ear flap appears reddened, is painful when handled and may be full of moisture (exudates or pus). There may even be a foreign body in the ear canal. In these cases it is best that you seek veterinary advice before attempting any cleaning.
Ear miters are the most common cause of irritation and information of the ear in cats, especially the young, and, as described later, they cause the formation of dark wax and grayish crusts in the ear canal. This condition is requires treatment with ear drop which contain a drug to kill the mites. There are best obtained from your veterinary surgeon. But before each application, it is important to clean as much debris as possible from the ear canal t allow the drops to penetrate. Never put any form of powder into the ear; it tined to set like concrete and completely blocks the canal.
First, stand small bottle of olive oil or liquid paraffin in a bowl of hot water until it is lukewarm. Do not heat it in a saucepan; it can get for too hot and scald the ear. Have some cotton wool handy and some cotton buds. Then place the cat on a working surface and if possible have someone else to help your restrain it. Grasping its scruff with your left hand (if right-handed), turn its hand so that the ear is uppermost. Fill up the ear canal almost to the top with warm oil, and then gently massage the base of the ear with your four-finger and thumb to loosen the debris. Wipe away excess oil with a swab of cotton wool wrapped around your finger. Repeat as necessary. Darning the application or removal of the oil it is usual for the cat to shake its hand violently, so perform this cleaning somewhere where oil splashes can be tolerated. Then clean out all the remaining oil and debris by carefully using one or more of the cotton buds. Clean around all the folds of the ear but don’t push too hard. Finally, you should apply the ear drops (usually from a squeezy plastic dropper bottle) and wipe any spilled oil from the cat’s hair. If necessary repeat this procedure for the other ear.
It is good idea to check the inside of a cat’s ears during grooming, or if the cat is regularly seen to shaking, rubbing or scratching its ears. Cat’s ears are seldom acutely inflamed but if they are the canal below the ear flap appears reddened, is painful when handled and may be full of moisture (exudates or pus). There may even be a foreign body in the ear canal. In these cases it is best that you seek veterinary advice before attempting any cleaning.
Ear miters are the most common cause of irritation and information of the ear in cats, especially the young, and, as described later, they cause the formation of dark wax and grayish crusts in the ear canal. This condition is requires treatment with ear drop which contain a drug to kill the mites. There are best obtained from your veterinary surgeon. But before each application, it is important to clean as much debris as possible from the ear canal t allow the drops to penetrate. Never put any form of powder into the ear; it tined to set like concrete and completely blocks the canal.
First, stand small bottle of olive oil or liquid paraffin in a bowl of hot water until it is lukewarm. Do not heat it in a saucepan; it can get for too hot and scald the ear. Have some cotton wool handy and some cotton buds. Then place the cat on a working surface and if possible have someone else to help your restrain it. Grasping its scruff with your left hand (if right-handed), turn its hand so that the ear is uppermost. Fill up the ear canal almost to the top with warm oil, and then gently massage the base of the ear with your four-finger and thumb to loosen the debris. Wipe away excess oil with a swab of cotton wool wrapped around your finger. Repeat as necessary. Darning the application or removal of the oil it is usual for the cat to shake its hand violently, so perform this cleaning somewhere where oil splashes can be tolerated. Then clean out all the remaining oil and debris by carefully using one or more of the cotton buds. Clean around all the folds of the ear but don’t push too hard. Finally, you should apply the ear drops (usually from a squeezy plastic dropper bottle) and wipe any spilled oil from the cat’s hair. If necessary repeat this procedure for the other ear.
Q: Is it ever necessary to clean a cat’s teeth?
Answer: Cleaning a cat’s teeth is unusual, but if the cat will allow you to do it, it can be useful in preventing or minimizing the accumulation of tartar.
The build-up of tartar on the teeth is responsible for most of the dental problems of cats; they don’t often suffer from pitting of the tooth enamel (cries) which is the main problem for humans. The teeth most commonly affected are the upper and lower canines, the premolars and the first upper molars.
Tartar form naturally from the growth of oral bacteria on the teeth, from the trapping of food debris (plaque) precipitation of salt, principally calcium hydroxyapatite, from the cat’s saliva. In cats who use their teeth a lot frequent ribbing on the tooth surface minimizes tartar formation. Therefore cats who catch and eat their own food (mice and birds) usually have little tartar, and the same is true of cats fed on large chunks of meat and dry cat food are given meaty bones from which to tear the flesh. Unfortunately, the teeth receive little wear if the cat is fed soft foods, such as tinned pet foods, fish are finely chopped or minced meat, and cats regularly fed this way soon accumulate tartar.
Tartar is deposited first where the tooth is rubbed least where it meats the gum. This rough material traps further bacteria and food and irritates the gum, which becomes inflamed and cause a bright pink or red line above the teeth. The tartar is first looks like a yellowish-grey upper rim on the teeth, but in time large masses accumulate which if not removed can eventually become large then the tooth itself. As more and more tartar is deposited, the information gets worse. As the gum swells away from the tooth, the roots are exposed and bacteria are able to get into the tooth socket. Ultimately, this can result in massive infection, a loosening of the tooth and sometimes even abscess formation. This condition, known as periodontal disease, is very common in cat.
The irritation produced can cause excessive salivation and old cats often sit with long ‘drools’ of thick saliva hanging from their mouth and wetting the hair on their chest. There breath has a foul smell (halitosis) and the pain of a loose tooth may prevent them eating except very gingerly or on one side of the mouth; sometimes not at all. Often they rub or paw at their mouth.
To remove tartar (by cracking it with dental forceps and using a dental scraper or ultrasonic scaler) and any loose teeth requires the use of a general anesthetic. Obviously, it would be batter to avoid tartar accumulation, ideally by changing the diet and providing vinyl chew ‘toys’; but there are some owners who also regularly clean their cats’ teeth.
A small, soft child’s toothbrush, moistened and dipped into tooth powder, is probably best. Cats seem to object more to toothpaste because of its flavor and the detergent content which makes it froth in the mouth. A good alternative is to use moistened sodium bicarbonate powder or hydrogen peroxide. The noise of electric toothbrushes renders them unsuitable.
The cat should be held by its scruff on a table, ideally in a sitting position with his feet held by a helper. The brush should be moved firmly, but not too vigorously, up and down and from side to side. Clean both top and bottom teeth at the front and the back, paying particular attention to the teeth at the back of the mouth at the point where each tooth meets the gum, but stop if any bleeding occurs. If the cat will not permit use of a brush, a finger warped in soft rag may be used, though take care not to get bitten.
Daily cleaning is preferable for preventing the recurrence of calculus, but weekly brushing is probably adequate.
The build-up of tartar on the teeth is responsible for most of the dental problems of cats; they don’t often suffer from pitting of the tooth enamel (cries) which is the main problem for humans. The teeth most commonly affected are the upper and lower canines, the premolars and the first upper molars.
Tartar form naturally from the growth of oral bacteria on the teeth, from the trapping of food debris (plaque) precipitation of salt, principally calcium hydroxyapatite, from the cat’s saliva. In cats who use their teeth a lot frequent ribbing on the tooth surface minimizes tartar formation. Therefore cats who catch and eat their own food (mice and birds) usually have little tartar, and the same is true of cats fed on large chunks of meat and dry cat food are given meaty bones from which to tear the flesh. Unfortunately, the teeth receive little wear if the cat is fed soft foods, such as tinned pet foods, fish are finely chopped or minced meat, and cats regularly fed this way soon accumulate tartar.
Tartar is deposited first where the tooth is rubbed least where it meats the gum. This rough material traps further bacteria and food and irritates the gum, which becomes inflamed and cause a bright pink or red line above the teeth. The tartar is first looks like a yellowish-grey upper rim on the teeth, but in time large masses accumulate which if not removed can eventually become large then the tooth itself. As more and more tartar is deposited, the information gets worse. As the gum swells away from the tooth, the roots are exposed and bacteria are able to get into the tooth socket. Ultimately, this can result in massive infection, a loosening of the tooth and sometimes even abscess formation. This condition, known as periodontal disease, is very common in cat.
The irritation produced can cause excessive salivation and old cats often sit with long ‘drools’ of thick saliva hanging from their mouth and wetting the hair on their chest. There breath has a foul smell (halitosis) and the pain of a loose tooth may prevent them eating except very gingerly or on one side of the mouth; sometimes not at all. Often they rub or paw at their mouth.
To remove tartar (by cracking it with dental forceps and using a dental scraper or ultrasonic scaler) and any loose teeth requires the use of a general anesthetic. Obviously, it would be batter to avoid tartar accumulation, ideally by changing the diet and providing vinyl chew ‘toys’; but there are some owners who also regularly clean their cats’ teeth.
A small, soft child’s toothbrush, moistened and dipped into tooth powder, is probably best. Cats seem to object more to toothpaste because of its flavor and the detergent content which makes it froth in the mouth. A good alternative is to use moistened sodium bicarbonate powder or hydrogen peroxide. The noise of electric toothbrushes renders them unsuitable.
The cat should be held by its scruff on a table, ideally in a sitting position with his feet held by a helper. The brush should be moved firmly, but not too vigorously, up and down and from side to side. Clean both top and bottom teeth at the front and the back, paying particular attention to the teeth at the back of the mouth at the point where each tooth meets the gum, but stop if any bleeding occurs. If the cat will not permit use of a brush, a finger warped in soft rag may be used, though take care not to get bitten.
Daily cleaning is preferable for preventing the recurrence of calculus, but weekly brushing is probably adequate.
Q: When should I first start grooming a kitten?
Answer: Grooming should start when cats are around four months’ old to get them used to being handled. At the other extreme it is particularly important for elderly or ill cats who are unwilling or unable to groom themselves.
Q: Are there any other reasons for cat grooming?
Answer: Daily combing and brushing also avoids matting of the coat in areas which it is difficult for the cat to reach; between the shoulder blades, behind the ears, and under the chin, legs and tail. Again this problem is especially likely to occur in long-haired breeds. If any mattes are discarded, it may be possible, if they are small, to tease them apart by pulling sideways on them with the index finger and thumb of both hands, and then to comb them out. It is best to cut off larger mattes, but be careful. Use blunt-ended scissor, not those with sharp points which can easily penetrate the skin. And it is best to work the teeth of the comb between the matt and the skin first and cut out over the top of the comb. Wherever you do, do not wet the coat to try to remove these tangles; this really makes them set as a solid mass. (so all mattes must be removed before a cats is bathed.) In a much neglected long-haired cat with extensive matting of the coat the only solution is for a veterinary surgeon to give a general anesthetic, and to comb and clip the mattes out with electric clippers.
Last, but not least, regular grooming of the cat allows you to discover signs of flea infestation and of other skin disorders like wounds, abscesses and painful areas which are often indicative of bites from the other.
Last, but not least, regular grooming of the cat allows you to discover signs of flea infestation and of other skin disorders like wounds, abscesses and painful areas which are often indicative of bites from the other.
Q: Do all breeds of cat need grooming?
Answer: The answer is yes, except for the few hairless cats like the Sphynx and some extreme type of Rex cats. Although the need for regular grooming is greatest in the long-haired breeds, all cats, whether show animals or household pets, need daily grooming to make them look their best and to prevent other problems developing. (Incidentally, talking about the absence of hair, you may notice that all cats lick eyelashes.)
Cats can be classified for grooming purposes into the following groups.
1 Short-hair, single-coat breeds (e.g. Siamese, Burmese, Rex and British Shorthair) which need to be first combed and brushed against the hair to remove dead hairs, and finally brushed with the ‘lie’ of the hair.
2 Short-hair double-coat breeds (e.g. Abyssinian, Russian Blue and American Shorthair) which have, in addition to the long guard hair which give the coat its color, a dense short undercoat. Grooming is the same as for the single-coated animals, but should not be overdone as it can destroy the coat.
3 Long-haired breeds (e.g. Persian, Himalayan, Turkish (Angora) which need careful and extensive combing and brushing; the fur around the head and shoulders being finally brushed upwards to form a frame around the face.
Most short-haired cats have a coat about I ¾ inches (4.5 cm) long, whereas in the long-hairs it can reach 5 inches (13 cm) or more. Regular grooming (particularly combing) remove from the coat the loss hair which are naturally shed by all animals. If these are not combed or brushed out, the cat will remove then as it washes itself. The cat’s tongue is covered with numerous spiky processes (papillae) which the cat’s tongue its rough, rasp-like feel. The loss hairs are thus combed out by the tongue as the cat licks. But because these processes point backward, it is difficult for the hairs to then pass forwards off the tongue. It is much easier for the hairs to pass backward as the tongue is pushed out so that they gradually work back into the throat and are swallowed.
These swallowed hairs accumulate as solid, sausage-shaped masses in the stomach, commonly known as hairball or fur balls, and in ungrounded longhaired cats this can be regular occurrence. A cat with a hairball in the stomach can feel hungry and yet full up at the same time. It consequently makes frequent trips to the feeding bowl but eats very little on each occasion. Often the hairballs are got rid of by being vomited up, but sometime they pass into the intestines and can cause a blockage. It may be possible for the cat to get rid of this after a does of liquid paraffin which lubricates its passage; otherwise surgical removal becomes necessary.
A neglected long-haired cat can also get hair entangled behind its lower canine teeth. The cat cannot dislodge this although is paws at its mouth and salivates excessively. Eventually this ‘rope’ of hair digs into the gums.
All of this can be avoided if hairs are regularly removed each day by combing.
Cats can be classified for grooming purposes into the following groups.
1 Short-hair, single-coat breeds (e.g. Siamese, Burmese, Rex and British Shorthair) which need to be first combed and brushed against the hair to remove dead hairs, and finally brushed with the ‘lie’ of the hair.
2 Short-hair double-coat breeds (e.g. Abyssinian, Russian Blue and American Shorthair) which have, in addition to the long guard hair which give the coat its color, a dense short undercoat. Grooming is the same as for the single-coated animals, but should not be overdone as it can destroy the coat.
3 Long-haired breeds (e.g. Persian, Himalayan, Turkish (Angora) which need careful and extensive combing and brushing; the fur around the head and shoulders being finally brushed upwards to form a frame around the face.
Most short-haired cats have a coat about I ¾ inches (4.5 cm) long, whereas in the long-hairs it can reach 5 inches (13 cm) or more. Regular grooming (particularly combing) remove from the coat the loss hair which are naturally shed by all animals. If these are not combed or brushed out, the cat will remove then as it washes itself. The cat’s tongue is covered with numerous spiky processes (papillae) which the cat’s tongue its rough, rasp-like feel. The loss hairs are thus combed out by the tongue as the cat licks. But because these processes point backward, it is difficult for the hairs to then pass forwards off the tongue. It is much easier for the hairs to pass backward as the tongue is pushed out so that they gradually work back into the throat and are swallowed.
These swallowed hairs accumulate as solid, sausage-shaped masses in the stomach, commonly known as hairball or fur balls, and in ungrounded longhaired cats this can be regular occurrence. A cat with a hairball in the stomach can feel hungry and yet full up at the same time. It consequently makes frequent trips to the feeding bowl but eats very little on each occasion. Often the hairballs are got rid of by being vomited up, but sometime they pass into the intestines and can cause a blockage. It may be possible for the cat to get rid of this after a does of liquid paraffin which lubricates its passage; otherwise surgical removal becomes necessary.
A neglected long-haired cat can also get hair entangled behind its lower canine teeth. The cat cannot dislodge this although is paws at its mouth and salivates excessively. Eventually this ‘rope’ of hair digs into the gums.
All of this can be avoided if hairs are regularly removed each day by combing.
Q: Can any special grooming be done purely for shown purposes?
Answer: For show purpose the seen on the coat of short-haired breeders is improved by a final smoothing over with a chamois leather or even repeated hand stroking. Exhibitors of long-haired breeder often wipe the fur with a cloth lightly dampened with a very dilute solution of household ammonia (six drops in half a pint) and finished off by ‘polishing’ the fur with a piece of silk or velvet wrapped around their hand.
Q: What type of brushes and combs should I buy for cat grooming?
Answer: A natural (pig) bristle brush, although more expensive, is undoubtedly better for the coat then one with nylon or other synthetic bristles; these can cause heavy charges of static electricity to build up and lead to breakage of the hairs. A narrow brush with long bristles is often easier to use them one with the broad head. Wire brushes tend to pull out the hairs by their roots, though rubber brush is value able for removing dead hairs which, is swallowed, with cause hairball.
Brushing is valuable in giving sheen to the coat, but coming is more effective in ensuring that all dead hair is removed. A steel comb is usually better then one of plastic or bone, provided that the ends of the teeth are rounded so as not scratch the skin. In general, two different spacing of teeth are required; a wide spacing for preliminary combing (especially in log-haired breeds); and a medium spacing for thorough combing. These different teeth spacing may be arranged as either end of the long comb. However, a comb with a handle is often easier to use so either two combs needed are one which is double sided. In addition, a fine comb can be used around the face and even all over on the short-haired breeders.
The teeth of the comb should be inserted down to the skin for the combing to be effective. A carder or slicker brush may be helpful in removing matter hair from long-haired animals but is by no means essential.
With grooming, as with many other tasks, there is a happy medium; it need to be done thoroughly all over, but forcing the comb out through mats will tug out living as well as dead hair. Excessive brushing will cause many hairs to break.
Provided grooming beings at an early age and is continued regularly, most cats will tolerate and often enjoy it. It is important no to stand nonsense or the cat may believe that if it struggles enough you will stop. Grasp it gently but firmly by the scruff and carry on until the job is finished. Usually it is best performed with the cat standing on a bench or table to catch the loss hairs.
Brushing is valuable in giving sheen to the coat, but coming is more effective in ensuring that all dead hair is removed. A steel comb is usually better then one of plastic or bone, provided that the ends of the teeth are rounded so as not scratch the skin. In general, two different spacing of teeth are required; a wide spacing for preliminary combing (especially in log-haired breeds); and a medium spacing for thorough combing. These different teeth spacing may be arranged as either end of the long comb. However, a comb with a handle is often easier to use so either two combs needed are one which is double sided. In addition, a fine comb can be used around the face and even all over on the short-haired breeders.
The teeth of the comb should be inserted down to the skin for the combing to be effective. A carder or slicker brush may be helpful in removing matter hair from long-haired animals but is by no means essential.
With grooming, as with many other tasks, there is a happy medium; it need to be done thoroughly all over, but forcing the comb out through mats will tug out living as well as dead hair. Excessive brushing will cause many hairs to break.
Provided grooming beings at an early age and is continued regularly, most cats will tolerate and often enjoy it. It is important no to stand nonsense or the cat may believe that if it struggles enough you will stop. Grasp it gently but firmly by the scruff and carry on until the job is finished. Usually it is best performed with the cat standing on a bench or table to catch the loss hairs.
Q: Will bathing get rid of fleas?
Answer: Bathing a cat with a conventional shampoo, that is to say one which does not contain any specific ant parasitic agent, will not be sufficient to eliminate existing flea problem. As is mentioned later, the successful removal of fleas depend upon treating both the infected animal and the surroundings with an insecticidal preparation. At any one time there are usually far more fleas in the surroundings (e.g. the bedding and around the sleeping area) then on the animal.
Shampoos are available which contain insecticides and, providing these are used as directed on adult cats, no kittens, they should be safe. After the cat’s coat has been soaked with water, the shampoo is vigorously rubbed into it all over for five minutes, avoiding the mouth and eyes. Then, after the specific time interval, the shampoo is rinsed out using running water, e.g. from the shower attachment, for at least five minutes, so that no residue remains in the coat. Otherwise, the cat is likely to ingest it whilst cleaning its coat subsequently. Bathing with an insecticidal shampoo may sometime be recommended prior to treatment with an ant parasitic powder or aerosol spray.
An insecticide impregnated soap is also available with which to leather the coat. It is generally more difficult to use and, because in order to be effective the residue is best not completely rinsed out, it is more difficult to avoid the cat licking in the insecticide. This soap is generally less effective then a shampoo at getting rid of fleas.
There are other points which should be clarified. Bathing can not be relied upon to drown the fleas. Many of them will simply hope off the animal as it is wetted, and can therefore hope on again later. Even if they did drown, there would be plenty of other fleas in the surroundings able to take their place. Also, because of their great mobility, combing the coat to get rid of fleas is likewise useless. The only advantage of combing is that by parting the hair it is easier to demonstrate the presence of fleas or flea direst.
Bathing a cat is a disinfectant solution, and washing the surroundings with disinfectant, will not remove fleas. Disinfectant are not formulated for this purpose and certainly fleas eggs are able to withstand treatment with any of the disinfectants that you would be prepared to use on your floors and carpets. The ability of disinfectants to destroy organisms of all kinds is seriously over-estimated by most number of the public, largely as a result of misleading advertising. The pine oil disinfectants, sold under many brand names fore household use, have particularly low activity and are not taken seriously as disinfectants by the experts in hospital hygiene. Other antiseptics (skin disinfectant solutions) sold for the bathing of wounds also have a disturbingly low activity against more organisms. Disinfectant are more likely to upset your cat by their unpleasant smell, a being licked from the coat, or even by casting a skin reaction, then to contribute to the successful removal of fleas.
Shampoos are available which contain insecticides and, providing these are used as directed on adult cats, no kittens, they should be safe. After the cat’s coat has been soaked with water, the shampoo is vigorously rubbed into it all over for five minutes, avoiding the mouth and eyes. Then, after the specific time interval, the shampoo is rinsed out using running water, e.g. from the shower attachment, for at least five minutes, so that no residue remains in the coat. Otherwise, the cat is likely to ingest it whilst cleaning its coat subsequently. Bathing with an insecticidal shampoo may sometime be recommended prior to treatment with an ant parasitic powder or aerosol spray.
An insecticide impregnated soap is also available with which to leather the coat. It is generally more difficult to use and, because in order to be effective the residue is best not completely rinsed out, it is more difficult to avoid the cat licking in the insecticide. This soap is generally less effective then a shampoo at getting rid of fleas.
There are other points which should be clarified. Bathing can not be relied upon to drown the fleas. Many of them will simply hope off the animal as it is wetted, and can therefore hope on again later. Even if they did drown, there would be plenty of other fleas in the surroundings able to take their place. Also, because of their great mobility, combing the coat to get rid of fleas is likewise useless. The only advantage of combing is that by parting the hair it is easier to demonstrate the presence of fleas or flea direst.
Bathing a cat is a disinfectant solution, and washing the surroundings with disinfectant, will not remove fleas. Disinfectant are not formulated for this purpose and certainly fleas eggs are able to withstand treatment with any of the disinfectants that you would be prepared to use on your floors and carpets. The ability of disinfectants to destroy organisms of all kinds is seriously over-estimated by most number of the public, largely as a result of misleading advertising. The pine oil disinfectants, sold under many brand names fore household use, have particularly low activity and are not taken seriously as disinfectants by the experts in hospital hygiene. Other antiseptics (skin disinfectant solutions) sold for the bathing of wounds also have a disturbingly low activity against more organisms. Disinfectant are more likely to upset your cat by their unpleasant smell, a being licked from the coat, or even by casting a skin reaction, then to contribute to the successful removal of fleas.
Q: Are dry shampoos advisable for cats?
Answer: Dry shampoos are essentially powders which are made to be dusted into the coat and then completely brushed out (an upwards and away from the body brushing action is required). They are mixture of absorbent materials such as talc, boric acid and mild alkali, intended to remove both grease and dirt. A number of proprietary brands are available. Those who show cats professionally often use talcum powder or corn flour on cats with light-colored fur, and fuller’s earth on those with brown fur.
The effect can be pleasing if the application and removal is done thoroughly. However, if the coat is very dirty or greasy, these powders will not clean it effectively. Some breeders rub warm bran into to the greasy coat to absorb the grease and then brush it out, but this is still not as good as bathing. The application and removal of the powder can be tedious, and on black cats any residual powder looks like dandruff. Powder also tend to make the coat dry and can irritate some cats, making them dribble and their eyes run. Finally the extensive brushing necessary to remove the powder increases static electricity in the coat making it ‘fly away’.
All in all, shampooing is not very effective and not recommended for cleaning, even though it is often adopted for show purposes.
The effect can be pleasing if the application and removal is done thoroughly. However, if the coat is very dirty or greasy, these powders will not clean it effectively. Some breeders rub warm bran into to the greasy coat to absorb the grease and then brush it out, but this is still not as good as bathing. The application and removal of the powder can be tedious, and on black cats any residual powder looks like dandruff. Powder also tend to make the coat dry and can irritate some cats, making them dribble and their eyes run. Finally the extensive brushing necessary to remove the powder increases static electricity in the coat making it ‘fly away’.
All in all, shampooing is not very effective and not recommended for cleaning, even though it is often adopted for show purposes.
Q: What should I use to bath my cat?
Answer: As a rule it is the best to use a baby shampoo which will not irritate the eyes. However, the mild detergents in baby shampoo are unable to remove heavy grime or grease and if that is necessary a reputable non-medicated shampoo should be used. Shampoos either soap or detergent based and may contain various additives. Soap shampoo often have lime-dispersing agents added to avoid leaving a dull film on her hair when used in hard water. Detergent shampoo may incorporate lanolin, glycerin are various oils to make the hair glossier and easier to comb.
In the absence of a shampoo, a tablet of ordinary unmediated toilet soap such as you would to wash your own skin, or even mild soap flakes, could be used, but these are often more difficult to apply and may sometimes irritate the skin. Soap and shampoos should always be thoroughly rinsed from the coat.
At time especial medicated soaps or shampoos may be recommended or even provided by your vet, but otherwise medicate products are best avoided especially any containing could tar or carbolic. Never use detergent liquids or powders intended for washing clothes, nor dish washing liquids. However, when cats are covered in oils or creosote, the application of diluted dishwashing liquid (50/50 with water) or of a detergent gel intended removing grease from the hand, may be the only way to shift such tenacious materials.
Bath oils and protein containing ‘body-builders' are usually little value, though hair conditioners (crime rinses) cab be useful after shampooing in preventing ‘fly way’ hair. The positively charged particles that conditioners contain neutralize the negative electric charges which dry hair picks up, especially after extensive brushing, and which cause adjacent hairs to repel each other.
In the absence of a shampoo, a tablet of ordinary unmediated toilet soap such as you would to wash your own skin, or even mild soap flakes, could be used, but these are often more difficult to apply and may sometimes irritate the skin. Soap and shampoos should always be thoroughly rinsed from the coat.
At time especial medicated soaps or shampoos may be recommended or even provided by your vet, but otherwise medicate products are best avoided especially any containing could tar or carbolic. Never use detergent liquids or powders intended for washing clothes, nor dish washing liquids. However, when cats are covered in oils or creosote, the application of diluted dishwashing liquid (50/50 with water) or of a detergent gel intended removing grease from the hand, may be the only way to shift such tenacious materials.
Bath oils and protein containing ‘body-builders' are usually little value, though hair conditioners (crime rinses) cab be useful after shampooing in preventing ‘fly way’ hair. The positively charged particles that conditioners contain neutralize the negative electric charges which dry hair picks up, especially after extensive brushing, and which cause adjacent hairs to repel each other.
Q: Is it possible that my cat could be washing herself too much?
Answer: Some cats, particularly Siamese and Abyssinian, undertake excessive licking, even chewing, of the skin, and this results in hair loss, inflammation and ultimately raised, firm, moist lesion, typically on the abdomen, back or hind legs. This condition (lick granuloma) should be treated by your veterinarian.
Q: Is it true that a cat which has been bathed will never wash itself again?
Answer: No, there is absolutely no truth in this statement, though naturally a cat with residues of soap or shampoo in its coat may at first be reluctant to lick at it. However, a coat covered in diesel oil, foul-smelling mud or other obnoxious matter is even more unpleasant, and will often effectively deter the animal from cleaning itself.
Washing normally takes place after sleeping or eating. The cat first licks around its mouth, then at all the areas it can possibly reach, manoeuvring into vey strange postures to do this. Finally, to clean the areas that can’t be reached with its tongue, it licks a paw to dampen it, and then rubs the paw over its head and ears and down the face. A considerable quantity of saliva is used each day in the washing process.
Smearing a little butter onto the coat is one way in which you might be able to provoke a lazy cat into grooming itself. Kittens start to groom themselves, and each other, at about three weeks of age, and can do so very efficiently by six weeks’ old.
Washing normally takes place after sleeping or eating. The cat first licks around its mouth, then at all the areas it can possibly reach, manoeuvring into vey strange postures to do this. Finally, to clean the areas that can’t be reached with its tongue, it licks a paw to dampen it, and then rubs the paw over its head and ears and down the face. A considerable quantity of saliva is used each day in the washing process.
Smearing a little butter onto the coat is one way in which you might be able to provoke a lazy cat into grooming itself. Kittens start to groom themselves, and each other, at about three weeks of age, and can do so very efficiently by six weeks’ old.
Q: Is it ever necessary to bath my cat and if so, how often?
Answer: Many cats are never bathed throughout their lives and as a general rule a cat only needs a bath when its coat gets particularly soiled- with mud, dirt, urine or diarrhea, for example. This is not to say that the cat does not need regular grooming, but actual bathing is seldom required. However, if the coat becomes very dirty many cats may refuse to clean it, which is not surprising in view of how it must taste. Most cats dislike being bathed but will accept it if handled gently but firmly, especially if it is first done when they are young.
Sometimes there are medical reasons for bathing. Treatment for fleas can be given in the form of shampoo containing an insecticide. Bathing may be necessary to remove toxic and corrosive materials such as tar, paint and diesel oil from the coat. This may require the use of a liquid detergent. Often vegetable oils or other solvents are used to soften or dissolve these substances and then have themselves to be removed. In such circumstances veterinary attention should always be obtain as soon as possible. Many organic solvent are themselves irritant or corrosive and should never be used on cats, e.g. paint stripper, turpentine, paraffin (kerosene) and petrol (gasoline).
Cats that suffer from ‘stud tail’ will need, at least initially, to have their tail washed with shampoo or soap and water. There are numbers large sebaceous glands on the upper surface of the cat’s tail along its length (collectively called the supracaudal organ) and, particularly in confined animals, the waxy secretion that these glands produce can accumulate. As a result there is matting of the hair and crust and scale formation on the skin. The condition occurs most frequently in uncast rated toms and is therefore known popularly as ‘stud tail’ although it is also known in castrated male and females. This greasy material must be washed away, followed by daily combing and cleaning the area with a pad soaked in alcohol, e.g. rubbing alcohol, surgical spirit (although this is slightly greasy it contains 2% castor oil) or cologne. A cat will usually begin to clean itself more thoroughly and so avoid recurrence of the condition if it is allowed more freedom and consequently increased in access to fresh air.
Bathing remove natural oil from the coat and it will take several days for the coat to regain its natural gloss and bulk, usually described as ‘body’. Owners who exhibit their animals at cat shows often bath them as part of the preparation for the show (especially in the case of white and chinchilla cats), but this should be done several days, ideally two weeks, beforehand to permit the recovery of the coat and the return of the natural oil. There are also preparations which can be sprayed onto the coat to give extra gloss and thereby overcome the dulling effect of bathing.
Just before a pregnant female cat (expectant queen) gives birth, cat breeders often wash the skin and nipples and also clip away the their that region to make it easier for the kitten to feed. This is especially useful in the case of the long-haired breeds.
Sometimes there are medical reasons for bathing. Treatment for fleas can be given in the form of shampoo containing an insecticide. Bathing may be necessary to remove toxic and corrosive materials such as tar, paint and diesel oil from the coat. This may require the use of a liquid detergent. Often vegetable oils or other solvents are used to soften or dissolve these substances and then have themselves to be removed. In such circumstances veterinary attention should always be obtain as soon as possible. Many organic solvent are themselves irritant or corrosive and should never be used on cats, e.g. paint stripper, turpentine, paraffin (kerosene) and petrol (gasoline).
Cats that suffer from ‘stud tail’ will need, at least initially, to have their tail washed with shampoo or soap and water. There are numbers large sebaceous glands on the upper surface of the cat’s tail along its length (collectively called the supracaudal organ) and, particularly in confined animals, the waxy secretion that these glands produce can accumulate. As a result there is matting of the hair and crust and scale formation on the skin. The condition occurs most frequently in uncast rated toms and is therefore known popularly as ‘stud tail’ although it is also known in castrated male and females. This greasy material must be washed away, followed by daily combing and cleaning the area with a pad soaked in alcohol, e.g. rubbing alcohol, surgical spirit (although this is slightly greasy it contains 2% castor oil) or cologne. A cat will usually begin to clean itself more thoroughly and so avoid recurrence of the condition if it is allowed more freedom and consequently increased in access to fresh air.
Bathing remove natural oil from the coat and it will take several days for the coat to regain its natural gloss and bulk, usually described as ‘body’. Owners who exhibit their animals at cat shows often bath them as part of the preparation for the show (especially in the case of white and chinchilla cats), but this should be done several days, ideally two weeks, beforehand to permit the recovery of the coat and the return of the natural oil. There are also preparations which can be sprayed onto the coat to give extra gloss and thereby overcome the dulling effect of bathing.
Just before a pregnant female cat (expectant queen) gives birth, cat breeders often wash the skin and nipples and also clip away the their that region to make it easier for the kitten to feed. This is especially useful in the case of the long-haired breeds.
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